Polo Ground Area.......

Well, this is actually the third and last area of Leh as we knew it a couple of decades back. Other areas of Lower Leh and Skara are recent additions except a few scattered landmarks, like Zorawar Fort and Airstrip (now Airport) that have been in existence for quite some time now. So, when we say Polo Ground Area, we are referring to the areas around and basically below Tsemo Hill and Leh Palace, Polo Ground and DC office complex, Indoor Stadium area, Leh Gate and areas astride the road that leads to K’La and Nubra. It is the highest portion of the town and is actually the area that saw first developments after official capital of Ladakh was shifted to Leh from Shey because of purely commercial reasons.

We all, those who have been here, have been to Leh Palace and most of us have been to Tsemo Castle-cum-gompa-cum fortification complex at Tsemo Hill. And again, most of us have been to these places by road that passes along District HQ complex and then climbs into the Tsemo Hill. Here are, however, glimpses of the foot track, the original track that is a lane now, that takes off from a point around 75m from Jama Masjid and goes all the way to Leh Palace through thick settlements and a few gompas, both big and small.....

...To start with, there is muck, a lot of it, especially in the areas close to main market. As we climb up, the lane gets narrower and narrower. As the gradient increases almost suddenly, filth reduces a bit but a dug up job to lay a water pipe in the middle of a narrow, steep lane spoils the fun of walking on a track that has been traversed by millions, right from the initial days of a settlement called, Leh......

As we approach the mid-way point, we come to a bifurcation. Take any of two and you will land up at the same point. The only thing is that the left of the fork is a bit shorter than the one on the right. While we get transported to ancient times while walking through probably the oldest part of the town, it is really wonder-some to see that the area remains densely populated despite primitive living conditions. There are no drains, as elsewhere, hardly any maintenance of the lanes and buildings, no street lights, no amenities and an erratic power supply, as elsewhere. There is one restaurant to enable walkers to take a breather but it lacks ambience. While mud brick walls and old, traditional woodworks keep up withhold world charm, litter of present age does screw up the scene.

Some views from top....

Walking down, through another lane (Old Ladakh Guest House lane), one comes across, yet again, this innovation. While, I have already shared the pics of houses built over lanes, here is something a bit different. This is the short-cut to seek blessings while taking a walk....

Here is the only cinema talkie of the town and it is located very close to the biggest Mane of the town (same one that is between Polo Ground and Nowshera).......

Due to ever increasing traffic load, Polo Ground is slowly and steadily getting used as a kind of parking space......

This is early morning and as the time passes, number of vehicles would grow up. Administration is working towards addressing this issue. A few old establishments will eventually give way to multi-level parking slots. But as of now, this is what it is!

The area above Polo Ground and beyond DC office, is not very clean. It is dusty and bears a down-trodden look. While cleaning of lanes and streets is done regularly, the hygiene habits of the settlers appears to be twisted a bit.

Water woes continue (...why?) and just 10m from the tap, and across the street is this.....

(Note the warning painted in red)
This area, called Mane Sermo (last locality on the road to Leh Palace), also houses most of the offices, to include police, judiciary, administration and so on. But, somehow, something is lacking somewhere. Streets near office complex are pretty wide and smooth but even then, the area lacks class. For example, see the condition of cables and wires, right in front of the main gate of an office that is responsible for the development of infrastructure of the district.....

Anyways, it is better to look at the brighter aspects....like this conference hall next to DC's office...

...Or this group has chortens of many ages, though roughly of same sizes. Situated in the middle of an intersection, they look beautiful nevertheless....

This is the indoor stadium of the town (in this part of the country where weather gets harsh beyond limits, such a facility is a boon....

Area astride Nubra road is probably the most dusty, least developed and totally unmaintained. The population profile has something to do with it........

One gets amazed looking at such constructions and cannot help but wonder how do these guys manage their lives. And BTW, this is area that was so close to epicentre of the cloud burst.

This is the main Krishna Temple of the town....

,,,and though the lane outside the temple is not very neat, this house across the street has this beautiful sight.....

Leh has its issues with population. One does come across terms like non-Lehite nowadays (non-Ladakhis are referred to as ‘Down’ people, even for Ladakhis from elsewhere. While it may be an unfortunate development but there is no real hatred, just jealousy...may be. But there is a bit of humour in this too....they have Shias and they have Muslims!! (former being Balti Shias who are treated as original Ladakhis while latter refer to Sunnis from Valley). But despite all these loose terms, there is no animosity and there is a complete freedom of religious practices here. You may smile and think....so what? But there is a lot. In a state that is torn by fundamentalist violence for over two decades now, it means a lot. I suppose you will understand.
Now that we have been through three main area of the town, it is time to re-affirm my belief that if you have time and inclination, go for morning walks in Changspa area. It is cleaner, more beautiful, more charming and extra glamorous at all times of the day. In fact, walking on the outskirts of Changspa area, ie, on Sankar-Thissuru-Shashtang Bridge-Lower Gompa-Circuit House circuit is really an amazing and a refreshing experience. Fast flowing Changspa (or Leh) nullah, its sound and view, adds beauty to the whole experience. So, next time in Leh, WALK!!