LEH DIARY: FAMILY AND PETS
(October 2009 onwards)
LADAKH has been one of the most favoured destinations for us. Initially, it remained a dream unfulfilled for some years since we planned our first trip. Some hurdles, both personal and professional, kept this dream from realisation and once it happened finally, it became a case of plenty. Between 2000 and 2008, we could not make it to Ladakh despite our best efforts and intentions. While we roamed the country as also some parts of the world during these years, Ladakh somehow remained elusive and out of reach. And at some point, the fact that we belong to J&K state, simply started adding insult to the injury. Way back in 1993, I had been to Leh on an official trip but the aircraft had failed to land due to bad weather on that fateful morning. The actual urge, however, began in 2000 when we got our bookings done for our maiden trip to land of thousand passes but only to retract a bit later. Since then it became a case of only planning but no go for next decade or so. And then in August 2008, we undertook our first ever trip to moon land on a bike. We, like many others, fell in love with the largest province of our state. The second trip, again on a bike, happened in less than nine months, ie, in June 2009. And to make it a case of plenty, we got an opportunity to move to Leh with lock, stock and barrel in October 2009. So, what could not materialise despite our best efforts in eight years, happened thrice in a span of thirteen months flat. It had been worth the wait, after all.
The third trip meant more deliberate preparations and arrangements since we were moving in for a long haul….a couple of years perhaps!! With Srinagar-Leh highway threatening to shut down sometime in November, we decided to drive down in the last week of October 2009. This time, it was a complete family (Two adults, one child and three four-legged angels) moving out together. So it had to be some vehicle, a bit larger than a bike. We bought a new TATA Safari a few weeks before the kick off and drove it around to give time to the engine to set in. There was, however, one worrisome issue that remained to be addressed. While our daughter, Czia, had proved her immunity and mettle during our bike trip to Zanskar the same year, three pets were moving into a high altitude area for the first time. The likelihood of catching bad effects of cold and height and the fact that they cannot really speak (though they do communicate), created a sort of tension in our minds. Having remained associated with mountains for quite sometime, one was fully aware as to what elements could do to physically fit human beings, let alone to anyone else. Internet came to our rescue as we groped in the dark. We did some research and hit upon a few instances where in some foreigners had taken their pets to areas as high as 13000 odd feet. A deliberate study of effects of cold on the pets also revealed many relevant points that would be of help in the days to come. Over next few sessions, we gained enough confidence though a couple of concerns remained. Firstly, cold weather had already set in Ladakh while Jammu was still pleasantly warm. That meant one thing – pets would not get enough time to acclimatize to the change of mercury readings. Secondly, they had to undergo an altitude transition of well over 10,000 ft over two odd days. Thirdly, the eldest of three, Googlie, was past 12 years of age and had been aging naturally. Anyone factor in isolation could easily be tackled but a combination of temperature, altitude and age had its own issues. We, though had no option….we could not have left Googlie with our parents. A long separation at this age would invariably cause metal stress ad emotional trauma. Googlie has been with us to all the nooks and corners of the country over past decade or so. He loves to travel and taking him along appeared to be the right option. These posts are being written to provide an insight into issues related to unacclimatised pets in such areas as also give an update on day to day life in Leh and areas around. We hope that such an effort would prove to be beneficial to some of the readers.
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The journey started off from Jammu, via Srinagar. We had travelled on the same route in June earlier on. But unlike the rush hours related to annual Amaranth yatra during earlier trip, there was much less traffic. Srinagar city looked more relaxed and the cold had already set in.
Once at Zojila La, we took out the pets for a break. Googlie had no problems though we had just undergone a transition from a pleasantly cool weather to almost zero degree temperature.
In fact, there was a strong wind blowing at Zojila La at that moment and if my estimation was correct, the real feel temperature was just about zero or may be a notch lower. The neighbouring mountain features were snow clad and were acting as walls of a frozen wind tunnel. The other one, Bubblie, also remained OK except that she wanted to hurry back into the vehicle because of the cold. All three of them are Daschunds and therefore, lack long coats. The hair growth is minimal and their under bellies are virtually devoid of hair.
In fact, there was a strong wind blowing at Zojila La at that moment and if my estimation was correct, the real feel temperature was just about zero or may be a notch lower. The neighbouring mountain features were snow clad and were acting as walls of a frozen wind tunnel. The other one, Bubblie, also remained OK except that she wanted to hurry back into the vehicle because of the cold. All three of them are Daschunds and therefore, lack long coats. The hair growth is minimal and their under bellies are virtually devoid of hair.
The youngest of three, Adolfie, however, behaved strangely at Zoji La. He was shivering, of course but unlike others, he seemed to be under some sort of a shock. He relieved himself on a roadside marker but remained in the three legged position for a while even after finishing with his job. It appeared as if he had frozen in time. I had to pick him up and put him into the car after he refused to take water. He was totally listless at the moment. Pets, as we know, can acclimatise to changed conditions like human beings. But the process depends upon the water consumption pattern (both humans and animals). The sure shot sign of acute mountain sickness setting in an animal is his refusal to have water, his listless behaviour and restlessness. Unfortunately, all these symptoms were present in Adolfie at that time. Instead of waiting any longer, we decided to move ahead to a better climate since Zoji La was actually getting freezing and nasty.
We hit Kargil at around 1600h. Adolfie was still in a similar state though environmental factors had changed quite a bit. We were now at 9000 ft and there was bright sun shine. We hoped for a recovery under those circumstances. Googlie and Bubble took lot of water while Adolfie took a sip or two. He was still in a state of trance. I took them out for a walk after a while. The area we had been staying for the night, had numerous dogs – big and wolf like. Daschunds have no inferiority complex related to their heights. Standing less than one foot tall, they do not have any qualms in pouncing upon dogs three to five times their height. So, in a true Daschunds way, all three challenged the authority of local lords. A heavy exchange of noisy resonance took place before we came back indoors. That interaction with local kingpins had a magical effect on Adolfie. Once inside, he consumed a bowl full of water and became active all of a sudden. That was the end of the mountain sickness for him. We had got special coats stitched for them, using very warm woollen liners and those coats came in handy. During sunny hours of travel, however, they did not require those heavy covers.
Due to ongoing road widening work, we took Batalik route yet again. We did cross a few patches with frozen water on the road.
Due to ongoing road widening work, we took Batalik route yet again. We did cross a few patches with frozen water on the road.
A word about Magnetic Hill and the debatable versions of the people- we were crossing the site third time now. On earlier visits, we had not felt anything. This time, for a change, we felt the pull. To over ensure the fact and to help ourselves change our earlier opinion, I took the fully laden car to a point where it sloped towards Leh and then disengaged the gears. The car rolled back and picked up good speed at that. May be it was amount of metal that made the difference. Bikes have a smaller cross section unlike a tin box called SUV. We would leave it at that.
We had a week left for November to begin when we reached Leh. The night temperature hovered around zero degrees while sun-lit days remained comfortable. When I say comfortable, I mean so with woolens on. Protection is the key here. The famous saying, ‘’Do not Be a Gama in the Land of Lama,’’ is so apt and meaningful that any violation of this rule could spell trouble for anyone. Markets were open when we arrived except the ones that cater only for tourists. Thus, main market and the areas of Old Bus Stand were all open as usual while the shops around J&K Bank, Fort Road and Old Road, were virtually shut. A few hotels and restaurants were still running but the owners were in the process of winding up. With tourist inflow reduced to a trickle, it seemed to be a logical choice.
We could manage to have one meal at Gesmo (Fort Road) before it shut down for the season. Dogra Dhaba, located next to Gismo, remained open for a few more days before calling it a day. However, one small restaurant, Tibetan Restaurant, remained open for many more days.
Run by an elderly local couple, this niche is located on the bend where State Bank of India is situated. This small restaurant is on the opposite bend, on the tri-furcation that sees a street going towards German Bakery.
Eventually, all the eating places worth any mention did shut down except Hotel Grand Dragon Ladakh (Old Road) and a few tea stalls like Neha Sweets, Sneh Sweets and so on. The local vegetable market located opposite J&K Bank, remained functional in October. Their closing is related to two factors – National Highway remaining open for supplies from Srinagar and temperature remaining OK enough not to let juice in the fruits freeze. However, frozen chicken and fish were available in plenty.
Eventually, all the eating places worth any mention did shut down except Hotel Grand Dragon Ladakh (Old Road) and a few tea stalls like Neha Sweets, Sneh Sweets and so on. The local vegetable market located opposite J&K Bank, remained functional in October. Their closing is related to two factors – National Highway remaining open for supplies from Srinagar and temperature remaining OK enough not to let juice in the fruits freeze. However, frozen chicken and fish were available in plenty.
Weather started to turn cold as the days passed. I had to take the pets out for a short walk before going to bed. The wind at that moment would hit in the face. While a sweater or any another cover in form of a jacket or pull over would suffice for the body, a cap and a muffler/scarf appeared to be a necessity. Czia appeared to be unaffected. A few basic precautions had made sure that she did not catch cold or sickness. In fact, by the end of this month, she was getting ready to go to a school. Leh has good schools but there is no play way or a school meant for small children. Three years of age is a must and Czia was far from it as of now. We admitted her in Delhi Public School and were disappointed within a day. Finally, she started going to a new school called, Little Montessori. Self and Deepika also faced no issues. My blood pressure went up for a week or so but came back to normal thereafter. As a precaution, we refrained from consumption of alcohol. We do not smoke, as it is. Three angels were as good as they could be. Sunny days did compensate for the cold nights. Except for some trips to the market and to a few friends, we rested and gave our bodies much needed respite.
NOVEMBER 2009 – They say that road to Srinagar could close anytime after 31 October. In fact, for all official planning and stocking purposes, the road remains open only till 31 October every year. Any period beyond this date is taken as a bonus. There were, however, no signs of snow as October gave way to penultimate month of 2009. The mercury kept on with the downward trend but there was still no snow till Children’s day. On 14 November, however, snow gates appeared to have opened suddenly. Starting from the intervening night of 13th and 14th, it kept on snowing throughout the day and the following night too. We had a social engagement that evening and could barely make it.
By the end of the first snow fall, we had more than one foot of snow on the ground. That was something unusual for Leh. It does not snow heavily in Leh proper. A few inches of snowfall every now and then are followed by melting process. The mountains around the town do remain white during winters. Being a dry cold desert, Leh remains sub-zero for couple of months without depending upon standing snow for the refrigeration.
So, it was a welcome of a different kind for us. On the first morning of snow, when I took out pets for the morning routine, all three of them hesitated at the door itself. They had never seen snow or snowfall in their lives and there it was all white and still snowing. After a bit of coaxing, Googlie and Bubblie came out and started playing in the snow. Adolfie, however, had different plans. He refused to step out and then quietly relieved himself in the bathroom. While educating ourselves on issues related to well being of pets in such area, we had read about such a tendency on part of few pets. And luckily, we had also come across a suggested remedy to this problem. In the afternoon, as a break came in, I picked up Adolfie and walked for 50 odd metres in snow before putting him down on the snow covered ground. Now, he had no option but to amble back home. That moment saw another magical change. He started jumping around with Googlie and Bubblie. It was a sight watching three of them going berserk in fresh, soft snow. Another worry had been settled by God’s grace!!
By this time, all the shops and joints aiming to do business with tourists had shut down. In addition to Grand Dragon, only one more hotel, Omasila (Changspa Road) remained open while all showrooms and hotels shut themselves up. Driving became tricky on sloping roads as the snow turned into hard ice.
Local administration did make an effort to clear the roads but the un-motorable lanes and by-lanes had the surfaces covered with grey slippery ice. By this time, water supplies also went off. But Leh is a well-administered place. A government initiative sees water trucks delivering fresh water at doorsteps throughout the city every third day. The problem comes in the areas where water vehicles can not venture. Locals in such areas and lanes come out with water containers and take their fills on the main roads. That is quite a job in itself. When the ambient temperature is well below minus 20 and real feel is of much lesser temperature due to wind chill, imagine handling a thick pipe with full flow of cold water and trying to fill containers with narrower openings. Hands getting wet add to the hardships and clothes getting drenched cause a bigger agony. On another front, with the road getting shut because of heavy snowfall, supplies to this part of the country choked suddenly. All the stocking and reserves came into play suddenly. The fruit and vegetable market stocks suddenly started looking depleted. But one thing did not change and that was the enthusiasm of the locals to be out in open. The main market has stayed virtually open throughout. In fact, one has to look for parking as one has to do during summers. The only difference is that the parallel roads are empty and, therefore, there is no major issue with parking space at the moment.
The average temperatures fluctuated between minus 3 and minus 10. The saving grace in this cold desert is the intensity with which sun shines here. If one is sitting in a glass house or in a room with a good number of glass windows and the sun is up, one may not need heating appliances even if the temperatures outside may be well below zero degrees. Electricity is a major issue during winters here. With water levels in Indus dropping to a trickle and with existing hydel projects becoming defunct during winters, only five hours of electricity is provided to the town. This electricity is generated from a huge diesel generator and the timing is generally between 1800h and 2300h everyday. The most preferred mode of heating, therefore, remains kerosene or LPG heaters in the town and wood/dung based bukharis in the suburbs and villages.
We were fortunate enough to be invited to a wedding by a Ladakhi Buddhist family. Now that was something really great. We had been invited by girl’s side. It was pretty cold that night but the warm hospitality more than compensated for the freeze. Honestly, we were not really aware that the marriage in the culture entails elopement. So, when the wedding procession came in, we were surprised to discover that there was no groom in the party. A few relatives of the groom actually come in, carrying dresses and accouterments for the bride. After a brief ceremony, the guests (groom’s side) actually serve Chan’ng (local beer) to the relatives of the bride. They also garland the relatives in a traditional method. It is followed by a feast and then sometime around midnight, the groom’s party (mind you, groom is not there) elopes with the bride. The life for the newly eloped couple starts thereafter. The actual wedding ceremony would then be solemnised after a couple of years. Till then it is a sort of live-in relationship and when the wedding takes place finally, it is generally clubbed with the mundane ceremony of their offspring. Marriage remains a community function where in everyone pitches in. The simplicity of the affair has a charm of its own and the whole thing appears to be so great rather than surreal even to outsiders like us who are used to extravagant wastage during such occasions.
DECEMBER 2009 - The new month brought in more cold. It snowed once in the first week of December though the snowfall was more or less regular on higher reaches. Mercury dipped below minus 20 on more than one occasions towards end of the month though the initial fortnight remained more comfortable. Second snowfall had actually made sure that the temperatures remained below zero even in the day time. The term, ‘ comfortable’, therefore, remains relative.
The month also saw a major festivity, LOSAR. The celebrations of traditional new year in mid December appeared to be totally unaffected by the weather conditions. The town was decorated with prayer flags and there was music in air everywhere. In fact, on the main day of the celebrations (the festivals carries on for almost a week with three intense days), there was a rock concert followed by complimentary tea in the main market, outside the Jama Masjid.
The month also saw a major festivity, LOSAR. The celebrations of traditional new year in mid December appeared to be totally unaffected by the weather conditions. The town was decorated with prayer flags and there was music in air everywhere. In fact, on the main day of the celebrations (the festivals carries on for almost a week with three intense days), there was a rock concert followed by complimentary tea in the main market, outside the Jama Masjid.
The whole atmosphere appeared to be soaked in music and josh. Prayer meetings at the local monasteries remained on throughout the period. As part of celebrations, locals invite and get invited during the week. Aim remains to have a go at good food though by now fresh supplies are virtually over. The night of main Losar threw up many more pleasant surprises. Leh is surrounded by sugar loaf mountains. On three such features, ie Tsemo Hill and two hills on either side of Shanti Stupa Hill, were put up lights and oil lamps. In a town that is starved of electricity supply during winters, such an initiative by locals appeared to be so great. The oil lamps burnt off in a couple of hours but the electricity run lamps on Tsemo Hill remained on till the supply was kept on. It was a great scene in an otherwise a cold, lonely night scape. Soon after the Losar, came in Christmas. Leh has a sizable population of Christians (after Buddhists and Muslims) and as a part of local traditions, people from all walks and religions visit their Christian friends in hordes, virtually. While looking up our local friends that day, we came across large groups of people shifting from one Christian home to another. The true secularism could be seen there. And all this is on when temperature is well below minus 10 during day time…..Hats off !!
By now, the only link with the outside world was through air. Roads leading from Leh to Nubra and Darbukh had been affected by the snowfalls at Khardung La and Chang La respectively. Passes like Wari La, Tanglang La and so on have already shut for more than two months by now. Army and BRO have been clearing the roads on K’La and C’La on daily basis to keep the arteries open. Pangong Tso, we hear, is almost frozen but we decide to wait a bit longer so as to see it fully iced up. We had a mix of cloudy and clear days with balance well in favour of the bright sunny days. Thankfully, winds are not blowing on regular basis. Local schools shut down for three months in the first week of the month. So, Czia will now sit at home. We manage a local lady as her maid and Czia remains comfortable, playing inside the protection of own home.
Leh has big and fluffy dogs. The massive creatures are known to be killing stray donkeys in villages when their food chain gets dry. They are big and look ferocious. But to our one footers, they are nothing great. Adolf and Bubblie chase them (local dogs stay and move around in herds of 8 to 10, on an average) and take pride in entering their ring and creating noises there. On all occasions we found the local dogs to be tolerant enough to bear with the nuisance. May be our pets are too small or local dogs too well fed to really care for such small ones. We see them moving away quietly without responding to our pets. Only once did we hear some growling form the other side. Nevertheless, we take precautions to avoid conflict situations because one thing is clear, if those big burly guys were to get irritated and react, they could be very very dangerous.
We get invited by a local friend to dinner at Shey. Our TATA Safari would not budge with its diesel frozen inside the tank and pipes. Instead of screwing it up by heating with open fire, we preferred to request our host for a pick and drop. Luckily a common friend was also traveling from Leh for the meal at the same place and he carried us both ways. Again, it was hospitality at its peak. With local resources all dried up and supply lines severed, it becomes difficult to produce a decent meal. Understanding the difficulties, we had requested them to keep the fair simple but to our pleasant surprise, we were treated with a great refreshment followed by a sumptuous meal. The warmth that was extended to us, remained outstanding. People here are so warm and hospitable though they are introvert by nature, at least towards outsiders. A casual onlooker may get a feeling of these guys being snobbish but as you know them and interact with them, you realize the actual nature of these highlanders. They are sober, gentle and well mannered people who like to keep to themselves. By now, we have acquaintances with people coming from different walks of the society and we are in love with them. One thing we learnt about their names….there is no system of surnames in Buddhist culture. The two words in the name signify nothing about their caste or lineage. The words simply mean names. So, Tsering Dorje’s son could be Sonam Tundup or Tashi Dawa and not necessarily Sonam Dorje or Tashi Dorje. By the way, if one were to search any local database by name, one would come across hundred plus Sonams and Tashis and Tserings. In any case, this is a non-caste society and one feels dignity of labour in the culture- something so very missing elsewhere. A word about supply of fresh fruits and vegetables – local administration does fly in some fresh supplies on regular basis but demand and supply equation gets so weird that it becomes a case of too less for too much (money). People sustain themselves on dried stuff as also produce of private green houses that ensure steady supply of fresh vegetables even during the winters. There is lot more that could be done, undoubtedly !
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JANUARY 2010 – A freezing start to the new year saw things getting worse as regards contact with outside world are concerned. With dense fog engulfing Delhi, Jammu and other parts of North India, flight schedules started getting severely affected. So, even if it was bright and sunny at Leh, the flights will not take off from feeder stations in time. As it is, Leh’s connectivity with Jammu and Srinagar is really skewed. There is only one flight to and fro Srinagar in a week and two to and fro Jammu. The flight to Jammu starts from New Delhi twice a week, lands at Leh, flies out to Jammu, comes back to Leh and flies off to New Delhi, all by afternoon. With weather getting nasty at New Delhi and Jammu, this link appeared to be having too many vulnerable linkages and too many factors influencing those linkages. The first twenty odd days of the month remained too cold though last week or so was much more better.
(We celebrated Lohri as a small little private affair).
We planned a visit to Pangong Tso in the third week. Road till Zingral check point was OK but after that, right till a few Kms after Tsoltak (Base of Chang La towards Tangtse), it was fully covered in snow. Chang La looked mightier and more imposing in its new white look.
As we walked on the frozen surface and inquired about its ability to sustain our loads from a soldier posted there, we saw a gypsy coming from eastern direction. That local lad had come driving all the way from Meerak to the Lukung edge of the lake. He was heading for Phobrang. When we spoke to him, he expressed his disappointment about the fact that they had not been able to race their bikes on the lake this year because of some portions not solidifying the way those should have been. It may be noted that once Pangong freezes, there would still be points where hot springs throw up sizzling water. There is, however, no great fountain like activity and it becomes difficult to spot such points unless one is very careful. Getting sunk suddenly around such patches is a real possibility. A good thing about the lake is the fact that its water is not sweet but brackish. So, when you walk on its surface, you do not skid or slip unlike a walk on a frozen river where the surface is absolutely glassy. Numerous nullahs between Lukung and Tsoltak, eg Phiya Lung, as also parts of Indus were frozen at that moment.
The market, in spite of extremely low temperatures, remained jam packed with locals and pseudo locals like us.
One irritating factor comes to fore during the season. There are three ATMs (used to be four earlier) in whole of Leh. The one belonging to PNB is in the main market but is generally out of cash and spirit. One of SBI and another of J&K Bank remain the only two functional ones that take all the load. The waiting period is around an hour and then there are sudden 'No Cash' problems.
One irritating factor comes to fore during the season. There are three ATMs (used to be four earlier) in whole of Leh. The one belonging to PNB is in the main market but is generally out of cash and spirit. One of SBI and another of J&K Bank remain the only two functional ones that take all the load. The waiting period is around an hour and then there are sudden 'No Cash' problems.
Both these ATMs are located in main market itself and thus complete city converges on to these. One SBI ATM near petrol pump in Sheynam has been shut down for reasons not known. The same problem used to be there during summers but unlike those days, these ATMs shut down after 2000h or so. In fact, the complex that houses the PNB ATM, gets sealed from outside after last light. So, even if you try to access these outlets around midnight to avoid rush, you will not succeed. Are the authorities listening? Contrary to general belief, a vast majority of Lehites remains in Leh during peak of winters and such an arrangement is just not enough.
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Republic Day was celebrated with full zeal and enthusiasm. It was a sunny day though cold nevertheless. It was a great feeling watching school children and locals in traditional attire, participating whole heartedly in the function. A great change from another beautiful part of the state!!! Sense of patriotism is very high in this part of the country and this feeling is there despite the hardships and addressable but neglected issues related to day to day life of locals.
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A few glimpses of frozen Indus as well as Zanskar rivers. Deepika had clicked these pics while on a visit to Khaltse.......
A few big traders do stocking (can not be called a hoarding) to cater for long winter months but when those stocks are released into the market, the rates are not inflated. So, the popular or common belief that butter sells at black market price, for example, is absolutely untrue. Local administration norms have overcome any such tendencies. So, there is no artificial inflation in commodity prices. Amul butter (500gm) sells for Rs 107/- (MRP) Only exception remains fresh vegetables that seem to be over priced. Green chilies selling for more than RS 150/- per Kg during this month appeared to be on a higher side. One sore point, irrespective of the weather, remains unaddressed. Fuel, both petrol and diesel, and more so latter, is sold in highly adulterated form at Leh. After numerous problems with injection pumps of a leading car manufacturer, a special team had been flown in to investigate into the complaints coming out only in this part of the country. To their shock as well as relief, they discovered up to 70% adulteration in the diesel. Something needs to be done about this issue.
Hot water remains a rare commodity here during winters. In fact, cold water itself is a prized possession in itself. Obviously, frequency of taking baths suffers greatly during these months. Also suffers is the process of washing of linen and clothes. As a result, some amount of stink may be felt when a lazy localite crosses your way. But this is again not very frequent. It may be of interest to note that Ladakhis do not have a thing called body odor. Nature has bestowed this blessing on them in bargain for the harsh living conditions. So, while dresses may stink a bit in some cases, their bodies do not need deodorants in isolation. A particular segment of trading community deserves a special mention here. Roadside vendors sit on the pavement that goes along the road from main market towards old bus stand.
These guys sit in open and have no overhead protection against elements. They sell dry fruits, condiments, spices and a couple of them make traditional ladakhi footwear of yak skin and thick soles. Another group of four or five vendors sell vegetables, milk and some fruits on the footpath in the middle of main market. All these great souls remain ‘open’ throughout the winters. Looking at them on a cloudy day gives one lot of courage. Snowy days being the only exceptions, these guys have been there since ages. Makeshift Tibetan markets, around J&K Bank complex, shut down before mid January. However, all other refugee and kiosk markets near ITBP Campus, Gole Market and one near Khardung La tri-furcation, remain open and do brisk business during winters. The spirit and will of local populace to go out in such weather deserves a salute!
A word about health-God has been kind to all of us. We have not felt any altitude or cold related effects beyond normally acceptable limits. Though we had done quite a bit or research before moving in with our pets here, one more facets of their physiology came to light after we reached here. Daschunds are badger hunters. Therefore, they are equipped by mother Nature to survive in low oxygen conditions since nocturnal badgers live undergrounds. That factor might have helped our pets to acclimatise fast. As mentioned earlier, they lack heavy coats and have almost no hair on the belly. Look at the natural survival instincts, all three of them now have new growth on their underbellies. Also, their seasonal as well as routine hair shedding program seems to have been held in abeyance.
It was a nice ceremony that saw playing of wind instruments and drums as the monks danced with their masks on.
But the actual effect of the festival was felt in the market. Closed to the traffic, the main road became the centre of the carnival. Vendors were out in good numbers and discount sales were on everywhere. It was amazing to see so many people out in such a weather. More amazing was the fact that air rifles were being fired in open market with people walking in the background, just a metre from the target.
But the actual effect of the festival was felt in the market. Closed to the traffic, the main road became the centre of the carnival. Vendors were out in good numbers and discount sales were on everywhere. It was amazing to see so many people out in such a weather. More amazing was the fact that air rifles were being fired in open market with people walking in the background, just a metre from the target.
The main market had not shut down completely during severest of winters but this mela saw more and more shops reopening. The main focus of males, however, remained gambling stalls. A number of such stalls occupied one full length of the main market. Males, young and old were seen trying their lucks time and again.
At this point, we suspend Leh Diary since we move out on a biking holiday to Kerala. Details of the ride would be put up separately. As the local belief goes, the next few days will see better weather and by the time we return in the first week of March, our toilets will be ok (frozen as of now and need clearing up on daily basis). We were lucky to have clear skies on 17th and we flew out with out any issues though the temperature was minus 14 (real feel of minus 17) at that moment. The day we left Leh was the day when a holy figure was expected to arrive on a visit. Once again, it was religious fervour at its best. We shall resume once back from Kerala ride.
March 2010 - We are back from our bike trip to Kerala. In fact, one day prior to our landing on 06 March, Leh had snowfall. But bright sun had sorted out the whiteness by the time we landed in Leh. Peaks around the town remain snow clad.
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As we amble through this month, two events happen as regards weather. Firstly, day time temperatures have come to positives. Temperature tends to touch 10 degree Celsius during noon. Secondly, strong winds have started to flow. They say that these winds start blowing in March and gather full momentum in April that is supposed to be a windy month. Now this wind neutralizes what Sun showers on us. While the temperature may be 08-10 degrees Celsius, a good wind would bring down the real feel temperature by 4 to 5 degrees or even more. So the wind chill factor holds the key. These days if you stand at a place in a way that half of your body is in sun and other half in shade, you may shiver and catch sun burns at the same time. A couple of months back , it would have been chill blains and sun burns at the same time. So, there is a definite improvement in weather conditions. One is getting used to strong winds playing drums on the tin roof tops. And just to demonstrate what we feel, we may refer back to the authorities like this......
Leh market has started to feel the change too. During our first outing after arrival here , we saw JCBs scratching hard ice from drains and road surface in the main market. Dumper trucks were seen getting loaded by the machines and ferrying mucked ice to some place outside the town. Along with the cleaning process has come in revival process. Many shops have now opened up. Shops meant for tourists are opening up slowly. 
Hotel Lasermo is back into business and many other hotels can be seen getting cleaned up. Construction work on many commercial and private establishments has re-started.
Local labour starts getting work in March. They are well paid because of demand and supply equation here. There is an interesting angle attached with ingress of outside labour to this part of the country. Because of increased construction work and ever increasing requirement of skilled labour, this area sees an influx of labour from other parts of the country, soon after the severest part of winters gets over. A number of contractors bring in the labour and since roads are still closed, most of the labour is ferried by the contractors through aerial route and that costs money. At the same time, there is a dearth of fresh vegetables and fruits here. So, while labourers may carry minimum personal belongings, contractors dispatch fresh fruits as part of the baggage allowance to offset the fiscal deficit. No wonder then that grapes are selling at Rs 200 a Kg as on date. 
Now while the commercial activities are waking up from a long slumber, locals have not ignored their religious beliefs during this period of higher activity.
So, we see locals touching up religious symbols by painting afresh and burning fires in the smaller chortans to toughen the structures up for a new year.
(for all our travel tales, pl click HERE.....)
On personal front, a few developments have taken place. Czia has been admitted in Moravian Missionary School and her energies are now better utilized.
(for all our travel tales, pl click HERE.....)
On personal front, a few developments have taken place. Czia has been admitted in Moravian Missionary School and her energies are now better utilized.
The youngest Daschund, Adolfie (named after the dictator for his temperament that defies his size), was bitten by a local stray lord. His recovery has been slow and painful and a surgery had to be conducted to control the damage. But even in a bandaged form, he has not changed a bit.
Tourists have started to come in. Last month saw a total of 400 plus visitors, more than half of these being foreigners.
Though Leh is yet to open up fully and most of the hotels are still under lock, it appears to be an OK time to be here. All the roads to local landmarks are open (BTW, Pangong has melted), winds are not too strong yet and there is no rush of tourists as of now. Sun is shining bright and walking as well as driving around is trouble free. If it is not now, it would be in May to avoid April winds. However, this is also the time when stock levels are low and depleting with every passing day. While commodities are available because of good stocking levels, semi perishables like tetra packed milk, frozen meat and cheese and many similar items have started to expire. With a shelf life of 06 months and stocked in Oct-Nov, these items are nearing their end. But there is no crisis yet. Road is likely to open early, sometime in mid May, as of now. Army support and intelligence of contractors have made sure that some fresh is always available here. Green house fresh vegetables have been here through out though locals find them bland and harsh on stomach. After the religious festivities in mid February, there has been no major religious function in this period.
As I write this lines (today is 25 March), there is a prediction of week long bad weather starting from tomorrow. Lets see.....March is not finished yet.
There had been a mix of very pleasant and just about OK weather in the month. As written earlier, the last week had a prediction of bad weather. Fortunately, things have not gone as bad. We had spells of clouds with strong winds (winds, as said, will blow throughout March and April) all this week. Mercury did take a dive and on 30th morning, we had some snow that could hardly be made out unless one was out in open. However, higher reaches got quite a bit of snow. In fact, as I write these lines, Khardung La stands blocked due to snowfall. But it is likely to open soon. Strong winds with clouds on top mean very high wind chill factor but as the sun breaks the cloud cover and shines through in between, it becomes better. Winds are gaining momentum by day and tin roofs give a feeling as if winds are going to blow up the cover. But in spite of all these winds, dish antennae are standing tall, thereby, ensuring uniterrupted telecast of ongoing IPL. Telephone wires are mostly undergrounds except last few metres. In our case, it is 300m and we have been lucky to remain in touch with the world through this media.
As I write this lines (today is 25 March), there is a prediction of week long bad weather starting from tomorrow. Lets see.....March is not finished yet.
There had been a mix of very pleasant and just about OK weather in the month. As written earlier, the last week had a prediction of bad weather. Fortunately, things have not gone as bad. We had spells of clouds with strong winds (winds, as said, will blow throughout March and April) all this week. Mercury did take a dive and on 30th morning, we had some snow that could hardly be made out unless one was out in open. However, higher reaches got quite a bit of snow. In fact, as I write these lines, Khardung La stands blocked due to snowfall. But it is likely to open soon. Strong winds with clouds on top mean very high wind chill factor but as the sun breaks the cloud cover and shines through in between, it becomes better. Winds are gaining momentum by day and tin roofs give a feeling as if winds are going to blow up the cover. But in spite of all these winds, dish antennae are standing tall, thereby, ensuring uniterrupted telecast of ongoing IPL. Telephone wires are mostly undergrounds except last few metres. In our case, it is 300m and we have been lucky to remain in touch with the world through this media.
The place has come a long way from a small shelter of yesteryears to a very well maintained complex of today. The shrine is managed by Army without participation from any other agency. Open to all, it is worth a visit. BTW, when this place was discovered during road construction work not too far in the past, the locals had exhibited prior knowledge of a LAMA (Guru Nanak Ji) through the folklore.
APRIL 2010 - April is the month of winds in Ladakh. The howling winds, possessing tremendous momentum and force, are the norm these days. Once again, warmth of the season gets neutralised due to wind chill. This is also the time when locals would advise against visiting or crossing Khardung La. Unlike winters when blockage of the road is a daily affair and very much predictable, conditions during April are full of unpredictability. The suspense gets created because of the fact that there is not much of snowfall during the month but strong winds create snow slides or minor avalanches without any notice. As a result, a fair weather in April does not necessarily mean an open passage through K'La. And in spite all this knowledge, we decided to take our chances and almost paid for the bravado in the end. Luckly, we got away cheaply.......
Moon rise beyond Shanti Stupa
In the first week of the month, we got an opportunity to mix business (Deepika's work) with pleasure (family outing). She was part of a high level entourage that was visiting Nubra Valley over the extended weekend. We had been to Nubra during our Changthang Ride in 2008 but prospect of a relaxed outing with family seemed to be very interesting. So, on the given Saturday, we kicked off from the group RV at 0825h. As we boarded the vehicles, we got the inputs that K'La stood blocked but was likely to open in a couple of hours or so. We reached South Pullu at around 0915h only to find a long queue of vehicles waiting at the barrier.
This was also the opportunity to meet a man who is a legend of sorts. Mr Chering Dorjey, the present Chief Executive Councillor (CEC) of Ladakh Autonomous Hill Development Council, Leh, happens to be the person who had discovered Markha Valley trek in 1974. He is also accredited with discovery of most of the treks in Ladakh. A widely travelled man, he is a thorough gentleman.
Despite his present status in the region, there are no airs and humility shows itself through his persona. We sat down chatting about various issues concerned with tourism and adventure in Ladakh while dozers worked to clear the road. From 1000h, it became 1100h and by the time we got a green signal, it was past 1130h. Road was dry and clear for next five odd Kms and then we hit the patch from where standing snow started. Visibility was reduced since it was snowing albeit not very heavily.
Snow condition as well as road surface (grip) kept on deteriorating as we climbed towards the La. We were travelling in a Gypsy and that was a point in our favour. The La was fully covered with snow. Having been there twice over past two years, it still took some effort to realise that we had reached the La.
We halted a couple of Kms ahead of Sumur Village on our way to Panamik. The small settlement, called Tegur, has a small monastery where a public meeting was to be chaired by Mr Dorjey. It turned out to be a short affair in the end. By the time self and Czia finished clicking pics, while others went in for the meeting, there was just about enough time left to savour a cup of tea that was being served by the locals.
We reached Panamik at around 1430h. Another public meeting awaited the officials while self and Czia took a walk around to have a feel of the place. It is a small little place with not very well organised hot water springs. If we were to consider only the quality of sulphur rich water, this place has superior water with better healing qualities. Otherwise, hot springs at Chumathang appear to be a better bet with hydro therapy facilities in place. The PWD guest house at Panamik has a running supply of hot water in the bathrooms. The older portion of the complex has the floor that remains warm due to hot water running underneath.
We had a community lunch after the meeting got over at around 1600h or so. Some arrangements had been made for us to stay in a local guest house. The place was very well furnished but had bath-toilet on the lower floor. So, we decided to avail own departmental facilities at Sesoma, some 20 odd kms ahead, towards Siachin. We started for the place after 1700h and found the drive passing through some of the outstanding views around Nubra River. We were not very sure about the destination ahead and, thus, did not have enough time to enjoy the scenery but we were to realise its actual worth only next morning. We reached the place around sun set as very strong winds blew around us. Soon, it was pitch dark and winds picked up speeds. Amidst all that harshness being bestowed upon by nature, we were served a sumptuous meal by the staff. The english menu, as it is, happens to be our family favourite and when we were served that kind of stuff in that wilderness, it turned out to be a great surprise.
In the morning, however, we came to know that local Thukpa had been served to the people who had stayed back in Panamik for the night. So, in the end, it was difficult to say which would have been a better deal. Local food in that setting woulod have had its own charm.
We got up in the morning to witness wild beauty around us. We were to start back at 0830 and as we drove along back towards Panamik, we took out some time to capture a few frames.
We got up in the morning to witness wild beauty around us. We were to start back at 0830 and as we drove along back towards Panamik, we took out some time to capture a few frames.
While Panamik may be known for hot springs, it did not really charm us on that front. But the area between Sesoma and Panamik is outstandingly beautiful and deserves a visit. If you decide to visit Panamik, make it a point to pay a visit to this area just to experience its beautiful wilderness.
Trek to Saser Kangri takes off from this area. We came across a memorial erected by BSF to salute their comrades who had set out to scale the peak but never returned. In that wilderness, it gives a sombre feel.
We joined the entourage at Panamik and then proceeded towards Diskit via Shyok Bridge.
On our way, just short of Sumur village, we took a detour to the left and drove up a slope to pay our visit to Smastling Monastery.
(for all our travel tales, pl click HERE......)
(for all our travel tales, pl click HERE......)
Almost 180 years old, this temple is in a great shape. In fact, its ambience defies its surroundings that need much of developmental work. His Holiness Dalai Lama is expected to visit this monastery sometime later this year. So, it is gearing up for the visit. The ongoing work will further add to the beauty of the place. View of the ridges across Nubra River is simply astounding.
We were served nun chai, yeast bread (roti) and curd by the monks. I would confess that we have not had such a tasty curd for quite sometime now. In Ladakh, especially during winters, curd does not set in properly. If you take it next to a source of heat, it goes sour. You need to wrap the pot in a blanket to have some semblance of curd. So, we had been missing good curd since our arrival here in October last year. As a result, the curd at the monastery turned out to be a treat for us.
During our last visit to Nubra, we had skipped Panamik due to shortage of time. However, from a view point just short of Diskit, we had seen the road that runs through the river bed towards Panamik. At that moment, we had made a plan to come back sometime later and drive on that beautiful looking road. Today, we got an opportunity to fulfill our wish. However, despite its looks from far off, the road surface is bumpy and not conducive for high speed travel. Gypsy, as it is, bounces a bit too much.
We hit Diskit at around 1130h or so. It was just the same as it had been during our last visit. However, this time, we stayed in Tourist Reception Centre (TRC). For Rs 600/- a night for a double bed, it is a good stay.
Running water seemed to be a luxury after months of bucket lifting at Leh. As we know, Nubra is at lower height as compared to Leh city, the life has returned to normalcy at a faster pace there. There were no heating appliances nor was the requirement of the same. Hot water was served by the staff in buckets in the morning. Electricity is there for five odd hours only in the evening.
Czia's first pic (clicked by her)
Well, after a sumptuous lunch yet again, we drove out towards Chalunka. Good news here I would like to share with all the travelers. Areas beyond Hunder had been out of bounds for tourists till now. Coming tourist season, areas like Partapur, Thoise, Turtuk and Chalunka will be opened to all.
We crossed Partapur and then Thoise before reaching a small village called Skuru. A community centre was being inaugurated by the CEC in that village. Despite the remoteness of the village, we found so much warmth among the locals there. There were no items or preparations of show value….no shamiyanas, no kannats, no elaborate catering arrangements that our political leaders elsewhere are so used to.
But villagers had put up the best they had. A few guys and girls were standing, attired in traditional dresses to welcome the guests. There was no bullshit in the form of pomp and show but the sanctity of the occasion could be felt. For natives of one of the remotest regions of our country, having a community centre was like having a dream fulfilled. After the ceremony, the cavalcade started back towards Diskit.
We slowed down our pace to catch up on photography. Setting sun has a dramatic effect on the landscape and we tried to capture a few moments. We left out Chalunka for summers and for the bike.
On our way, we took a brief halt at a view point that overlooks Hunder dunes. Czia wanted to touch the sand and so both of us went off the road a bit. It was a virgin dune, so close to the main road.
However, just next to it, lay a dump of broken and shattered beer bottles. People have been sitting on that view point bench and drinking the beer before smashing the bottles at a point so close to the dunes.
A word about local belief. The structure below is called Laato in Ladakhi. ....
It signifies presence of spirit that can be invited by pure people to enter their bodies and interact with believers. People who are blessed with this privilege, become interface between spirit and locals who seek blessings as also ask for answers to their queries. But the best part is the fact that Laato spirit will only come in on invitation and it does not disturb life of the interface. The next on is where dead are cremated...
It was getting dark when we drove into the TRC complex. We relaxed in our room as winds outside became more and more ferocious. Even during the day time, winds had been violent but in patches. Nubra and Changthang are two of the windiest regions of this province. However, unlike Changthang, lot of sand gets kicked up here and the whole area becomes messy a bit. As the sun set in, winds became more regular and more violent. We felt lucky to be inside the nest at that moment.
We had our dinner at 2100h during which got the news that road around K’La had been blocked. A stretch of four Kms had had snow slides the previous night and there had been no traffic movement throughout the day. Further, the road might open the next morning if weather held itself during the night. We hit the sack with uncertainty regarding next morning.
As per the original programme, we were to fall back to Leh the next morning after breakfast at Diskit Monastery. However, K’La stood closed even in the morning. Today happened to be a dry day, being a Monday. That actually meant no traffic day but because of the nature of the entourage, passage was being given to us. But the road was yet to be opened. Rather than going and waiting at North Pullu, a decision was taken to wait at Diskit itself and await a word from BRO. That translated into ample time for some more exploration since we were not likely to move out before lunch in any case. We headed for the monastery at 0830h in the morning. The gompa is located on two hills. The old complex with original gompa and bulk of living quarters is located on one hill that is closer to the mountains and a deep gorge. The new complex is towards the main road and on another hill. It houses new temple, living quarters of senior monks, a school for young lamas and a huge statue of Maitrey Buddha (Future incarnation) that is coming up on an adjoining hillock.
As per the Buddhist belief, the teaching of Lord Buddha will remain in force for another two and a half millennia before re-incarnation of Buddha. The present Lord is seen as sitting in meditation or lying on a side while the future Buddha is seen in sitting posture, ready to get up. The massive structure is under construction as of now and would be complete before His Holiness’s visit later this year. During our last visit in 2008, the work had started on the statue. At that time, due to reasons beyond time, we had skipped the visit to this gompa. This time, we had different plans as offered to us by the circumstances. Breakfast at the gompa turned out to be an elaborate affair. With Bisleri bottles in place, it somehow lacked the simplicity that we had felt at Smastling monastery the previous day. We were offered nun chai topped with yak butter. Now, that is supposed to be a delicacy. But to lesser mortals like us, it turned out to be a strange concoction. We love nun chai and do not mind normal butter in it though cholesterol factor does come to the mind while having tea laced with butter. But yak butter gives this tea a very strange taste and aroma. It was with great difficulty that we could finish our tea. The second round was tea with normal butter and that gave us no issues.
After a hearty breakfast, it was the time to climb the adjoining hill to have a first hand feel of upcoming statue. Unfortunately, our camera battery cells ran out of life and one of the two reserve cells was found to be missing. We got clicked by others but could not really click any pics. Deepika did click a few through her cellphone aperture. We went back to the market to look for cells. We did get a set that was one year old. By now, we have become used to such vintages. As on date, nothing is Ladakh is less than six months old. The last vehicles had crossed Zoji La sometime in first week of November 2009 and nothing has come in after that. So, packed/tinned/ tetra-packed food items are nearing their shelf lives. Good news is that usual convoys are likely to start with effect from 15 April or so. So, we all are waiting. BTW, air cargo charges from Jammu to Leh are Rs 400 plus per Kg (mentioned elsewhere in this log). Anyways, with doubts looming large, we picked up the set and drove back to the old complex at Diskit Gompa. After the parking lot, there is quite a bit of climb through the living quarters. This monastery is around 700 years old and is dedicated to Maha Kaal.
After a hearty breakfast, it was the time to climb the adjoining hill to have a first hand feel of upcoming statue. Unfortunately, our camera battery cells ran out of life and one of the two reserve cells was found to be missing. We got clicked by others but could not really click any pics. Deepika did click a few through her cellphone aperture. We went back to the market to look for cells. We did get a set that was one year old. By now, we have become used to such vintages. As on date, nothing is Ladakh is less than six months old. The last vehicles had crossed Zoji La sometime in first week of November 2009 and nothing has come in after that. So, packed/tinned/ tetra-packed food items are nearing their shelf lives. Good news is that usual convoys are likely to start with effect from 15 April or so. So, we all are waiting. BTW, air cargo charges from Jammu to Leh are Rs 400 plus per Kg (mentioned elsewhere in this log). Anyways, with doubts looming large, we picked up the set and drove back to the old complex at Diskit Gompa. After the parking lot, there is quite a bit of climb through the living quarters. This monastery is around 700 years old and is dedicated to Maha Kaal.
There are many statues of Maha Kaal in various avatars but most of these statues remain clad and covered in drapers except for forty odd days in Nov-Dec every year when a puja is organized at the gompa. As the legend goes, a Mangolian warrior had reached the temple during an invasion from North. Once here, he had bowed in all respect to the deity and had just started to clean the floor with his own dress when the deity woke up from a slumber. Seeing the deity in full form, an otherwise courageous man had a heart attack and died instantly. The locals disposed off his body in the gorge down below but found the body back in the temple the next morning. Thereafter, his head and hand were cut and placed before deity while rest of the body was disposed off again. The body parts can be seen on the statue of the deity even today (see carefully……)
The death had its own repercussions in Mangolia. Thereafter some holy scriptures were brought in from Mangolia and kept in the gompa to pacify the spirits. Now, this story was given to us by the monk on duty. There may be gaps in understanding the lore and same may be pardoned.
This temple is located a storey below the topmost point. The topmost point houses the oldest structure of the old complex. We walked around a bit and had a good view of the town as well as the gorge down below.
We also came across this very interesting arrangement wherein fresh apples had been embedded on a dry apple tree.
A lama had just lit sacred dhooni outside the main temple. The pot contained Tibetan aggarbatti (yellow incense sticks) and leaves of a tree that grows in the area. This tree, Shur’pa, grows everywhere but is not found in plenty. Also, out of all the trees in the area, the lot that grows up high in the mountains, away from human settlements, is considered to be the most sacred. Leaves of this plant are then burnt along with the incense sticks for purification.
A word about lamas. With due regards to their position in the society and their religious status, it can be said that they lead a very comfortable life when compared with locals. Almost all the monasteries own large pieces of grazing and cultivable lands all over Ladakh. The locals who use these chunks, have to pay a share of their earnings, both in cash and kind to the monasteries. So, without any exception, these are rich establishments. To add on to the prosperity, foreigners donate large sums on regular basis. So, while one sees locals struggling it out, lamas live in comfort. The life style that flows along the religious preaching is no easy but in pure material terms, they are better off. Deepika had an interesting observation to make. While we feel presence of God in the area and crime rate is very very low, it is surprising to find each and every room, including the gompas, locked at all times. One comes across unattended shops and open household doors every where in Ladakh but we have not seen such an arrangement in any of the gompas we have visited till date. There might be valid reasons but at times, it becomes irritating when you have to walk around, looking for a monk who would, if found, then come and open the shrines for you.
All said and done, it was a good experience in the end. There is a feel of peace in such places and absence of crowds adds on to the integral serenity. We got back to the town just in time for an early lunch. News from K’La was encouraging a bit and we started at 1300h from TRC. Drive till North Pullu was OK but soon thereafter, we hit the snow/ice covered road. CEC had been traveling in a Scorpio (non 4x4) while all others were in Gypsies (4x4). There were, therefore, stretches and turns where Scorpio would skid and fail to get enough grip to move on. It would then be reversed and put into lowest gear to gather momentum. There were stretches like this that made us wait for a while. As we drove up, such stretches increased in numbers. As we waited on such turns and stretches, we saw Czia growing restless a bit. As the time passed, her restlessness started to grow. Stuck in the middle of a convoy and practically nowhere near civilization, one got worried a bit. But past experiences came to our rescue and we waited for the point when we begin to loose height. In the meanwhile, she fell asleep. Now, that is a good sign because sleep means less exertion and lesser oxygen requirements for the time being. So, we waited as she slept peacefully. Hats off to the driver of the Scorpio for he finally dragged the monster to the top despite all the difficulties and hurdles. Once on top of K’La, others were apprised about Czia’s status. CEC was kind enough to make room for us to overtake the pilot vehicle and head straight to South Pullu. By the time we reached South Pullu, Czia was back to herself. In a way, it was a repeat experience for her though she had no issues on her way up a couple of days ago. We had got away cheaply but things can get nasty at times. We would now advocate the local belief that April is the worst time to cross K’La.
On a personal front, it was a visit of a different kind. I have always been busy driving the four wheeler of Bagheera during all our outings. This time, I deliberately decided to sit and travel as a passenger. Except for a few stretches, it was Thinlay, our driver who handled the wheel. That gave me and Czia huge amount of time to interact. Our bonding got a new boost during this visit, an experience that can not be described in words. We enjoyed every moment of real togetherness.
Tourists have increased in numbers but Leh does not have much to feed them well. Hospitality, however, remains intact. Many more hotels are opening up and renovation/ construction work is on at many places. Main market is now fully open with Kashmiri traders back in the town. However, fort road and German Bakery road has not opened yet. Except four- five shops that had remained open through out the winters, no other shop or restaurant has opened yet. Behind J&K Bank, next to the Library, bike rental shops have opened their counters. It is getting better by day except over powering winds. Roads are expected to open early and there is lot of cheer about it here. As of now, we have just realized that noise of running water in a flush tank is as sweet as music. So, water has started to run. One more good development is the fact that breeding-cum-delivery season of the local cows has just got over. So, milk is available locally @ Rs 20 per bottle (750ml). Let’s see what else comes up in the balance of this month….
(for all our travel tales, pl click HERE...)
Tourists have increased in numbers but Leh does not have much to feed them well. Hospitality, however, remains intact. Many more hotels are opening up and renovation/ construction work is on at many places. Main market is now fully open with Kashmiri traders back in the town. However, fort road and German Bakery road has not opened yet. Except four- five shops that had remained open through out the winters, no other shop or restaurant has opened yet. Behind J&K Bank, next to the Library, bike rental shops have opened their counters. It is getting better by day except over powering winds. Roads are expected to open early and there is lot of cheer about it here. As of now, we have just realized that noise of running water in a flush tank is as sweet as music. So, water has started to run. One more good development is the fact that breeding-cum-delivery season of the local cows has just got over. So, milk is available locally @ Rs 20 per bottle (750ml). Let’s see what else comes up in the balance of this month….
We had heard the news of Zoji La opening last week but it turned out to be a rumour. Though it has not opened yet, it is likely to open soon. Rohtang, however, will be opening any day. I quote this article from visitladakh website
The Border Roads Organisation (BRO) Tuesday denied that the 475-km long Srinagar-Leh highway has been officially opened for vehicular traffic.
Denying an IANS news report, also carried by some private television news channels, the BRO said the highway has not been opened yet and that there has been 'some misunderstanding'.
'All we said was that the snow clearance operation was in full swing in the Zojilla Pass area of the road. The road is likely to be thrown open for two-way traffic by April 20 and as of now, it remains closed,' an official of the BRO told IANS here.
Ganderbal Superintendent of Police Syed Imtiyaz Hussain said: 'The chief engineer of the BRO visited the Zojilla Pass stretch of the Srinagar-Leh highway today (Tuesday) and inspected the snow clearance operation which is still on'.
There has been fresh snowfall in the area since Monday evening.
Speaking to IANS on phone from Sonamarg hill station which falls on the Srinagar-Leh highway, hotel owner Nazir Ahmad War said: 'It has been snowing in Sonamarg, Baltal and the Zojilla pass area since yesterday (Monday) evening and it is likely that the opening of the Srinagar-Leh highway would now be delayed for some time more'.
The Border Roads Organisation (BRO) Tuesday denied that the 475-km long Srinagar-Leh highway has been officially opened for vehicular traffic.
Denying an IANS news report, also carried by some private television news channels, the BRO said the highway has not been opened yet and that there has been 'some misunderstanding'.
'All we said was that the snow clearance operation was in full swing in the Zojilla Pass area of the road. The road is likely to be thrown open for two-way traffic by April 20 and as of now, it remains closed,' an official of the BRO told IANS here.
Ganderbal Superintendent of Police Syed Imtiyaz Hussain said: 'The chief engineer of the BRO visited the Zojilla Pass stretch of the Srinagar-Leh highway today (Tuesday) and inspected the snow clearance operation which is still on'.
There has been fresh snowfall in the area since Monday evening.
Speaking to IANS on phone from Sonamarg hill station which falls on the Srinagar-Leh highway, hotel owner Nazir Ahmad War said: 'It has been snowing in Sonamarg, Baltal and the Zojilla pass area since yesterday (Monday) evening and it is likely that the opening of the Srinagar-Leh highway would now be delayed for some time more'.
The highway, which connects the cold desert Ladakh region with the Kashmir Valley and the rest of the country, remains closed to traffic for more than five months during the winter as heavy snowfall makes the road impassable in the 11,000-foot high Zojilla Pass area. unquote.
BTW, it is raining-cum-snowing outside as i write these lines(12 Apr 1700h)
BTW, it is raining-cum-snowing outside as i write these lines(12 Apr 1700h)
Shanti Stupa remains centre of my focus all this while.....
and so does the Stok Range......
Can we really imagine Leh without these beauties!!!
Time to take stock of the markets and amenities. First few establishments on the Fort Road have started to open. Gesmo restaurant as well as the Dhabha next to it, are back in business...
A few shops around the restaurant have opened too but only towards upper side, ie, towards J&K Bank. And these shops are basically grocery stores only.
Just ahead of Gesmo, on the circle, as we turn right, these two popular hang outs have opened their shutters....
Beyond this circle, shutters are still down (towards Fort). Most of the good hotels are either open or in the process of opening up.
( for all our travel stories, pl click HERE.....)
Life is returning to normalcy but a few issues remain still. For example, water wooes are still a harsh reality.....
And this monument, Leh Fort, definitely needs a look....
After a brief illness, Czia is back in action. Her route home from school passes through this park that is nowhere close to the actual route....
A salute to indomitable spirit....
.....and my favourite, STOK Range, yet again.....
Well, moving on. Today is mid of April 2010. The past fortnight in general and last week in particular, saw a see-saw of a weather. Clouds, strong winds coupled with crystals of icey snow and scenes like this dominated the skies
However, we did get an opening on 14th, the Baisakhi day. It remained bright and sunny through the day. We decided to go out on a short family outing..a drive to Village Sabu. This settlement has been selected to be a model village by the administration. Located just five Kms from IOC petrol pump circle, leh, it lies on Leh-Manali road. As you leave Leh for Choglamsar, just on the outskirts of Leh, there is a road peeling to the left (before GREF and ITBP complex). A couple of Kms inside and you hit the first few fields of the village.
(for all our travel stories, pl click HERE...)
Czia has been unwell a bit because of overgrown tonsils. But her enthusiasm to go out on an outing was simply amazing
(for all our travel stories, pl click HERE...)
Czia has been unwell a bit because of overgrown tonsils. But her enthusiasm to go out on an outing was simply amazing
The village is getting into shape as of now. The approach road is under construction though one was surprised to see a big welcome gate but no black road underneath. However, a Km or so ahead, and an equal distance from the village, a stretch of old balck top road starts.
The village is separated from the highway and ITBP-KV School complexes by barren sugar loaf like hills. It looked like a normal village except that it is too close to Leh to be called a village in real sense. There is a camping resort in the village and a mixed population resides in the settlement. Some signs of greenery were spotted in the village.
( for all our travel stories, pl click HERE.....)
Life is returning to normalcy but a few issues remain still. For example, water wooes are still a harsh reality.....
We hope that it gets resolved the soonest now that day temperatures do touch 15 odd degrees and there is no freezing phenomenon in the night time too. Pipes that lay buried inside the ground, remain sheltered, if not immune, from wind chill factor. This greenery inside Leh is a proof of improving weather and the onus now remains on local administration....
18 April: an update....Zoji La got choked once again yesterday due to fresh snowfall. But the opening gave enough time to quite a few TATA mobile trucks to make it to Leh from srinagar. That meant fresh fruits and some vegetables in the local market. What a sight it is to see fresh stuff after six months. A cheer ran through the market suddenly. More good news is that Zoji La will now be kept open after this. As I write these lines (18 Apr 0600h), weather outside is still packed up. Last evening saw a a bit of drizzle and icey flakes. It snowed at K'La as well as Stok peaks. Despite an unfriendly or not so friendly weather (it is a temporary phase, as it is), the market is opening at a very fast pace these days. A number of shutters go up every day and it is a discovery when you drive through the streets day after day after days. We are expecting heavy rush , esp of domestic tourists, this year. They say, Three Idiots have a role to play in this. Hotels and airlines are already sold out for bulk of June. I would advise you guys to tie up stay arrangements before starting.
18 Apr 10 - A Sunday and time to SNIFF around. Weather had been slightly in an offended mood since morning. But as we lazed out of the quilt and had our breakfast and then lazed around again, weather improved a bit. We finally set out from our two room 'Residency' (as Anup sir calls it), it was already 1200h. We started for STOK, at the outskirts of Choglamsar that itself is on the outskirts of Leh.
We saw a building with an interesting architecture. It had a yellow colour scheme for its so called roof. We would check it out later. A bit ahead and a road takes off to left to visit Eastern half of Stok. A meditation centre, called Dhama centre, is located in that part of the village. We will visit that area on our way out from that end of the village, ie after driving through from West to East. So, we move on and soon we knock at the doorsteps of a beautiful, serene settlement, Stok. The place flows with positive energy and that was the first impression that we gathered at that very moment.
We drove through the village and kept on driving ignoring signboards intentionally. The road snakes along the foothills on the Western edge of the village. And then we reached a point where a sweet little nullah flows and it appears to be coming down from the lap of Stok Kangri. At that point, called Trekking Point, a bridge is coming up across a dry stream and the road crossing over to the Eastern part of the village lies disrupted. We halted there for a break while Czia went down to the little water channel to feel the water (weather and wind irrespective). It was to be the road head for us and we had to turn back to explore the place in detail.
We turned back from the point and started towards our first stop inside the village, at Stok Gompa. Now, frankly speaking, to lesser mortals like us, all the monasteries feel the same from inside though exteriors and especially outer ambience have distinctions from place to place. A steep narrow turn off the road and we climbed a small hill to reach the parking spot located vertically above the gompa. It was an amazing sight from top....
Soon, we were at a point where we had to turn left to a parking lot located just below the TV station. We walked up a small slope to enter the gates of the palace. Almost 200 years old, 185 years to be specific, this palace became residence of royal family of famous Namgyal Dynasty after the ruling family had to move out from Leh Palace after invasion by Dogras under General Zorawar Singh in 1830s. The present queen still lives here. There is a good cafe with a great view from its terrace, a souvenir shop (both were closed at the moment) and a museum in addition to living quarters of the royal family and guestroom (available for Rs 10k a night).
As we walked around, keeping the palace building on to our left, we turned left to walk in front of the cafe and climb a short flight of stairs to come across this spectacular view of Leh (left) and Choglamsar.....
As we walked around, keeping the palace building on to our left, we turned left to walk in front of the cafe and climb a short flight of stairs to come across this spectacular view of Leh (left) and Choglamsar.....
One thing that needs to be mentioned here is that since the palace has been kept in a meaningful use, the place is neat and looks well maintained. There is a touch of modernity too when you see the guestroom, and it is so for obvious reasons. The museum opens in May, as per the information on the entrance ticket, but it was open today. No photography is allowed inside the museum but the visit @ Rs 50/- was worth every penny. Some of the artefacts were simply great while a few looked like retro additions. Overall, a good experience.
We drove down to the outer edge of the village, towards Choglamsar and at the point where we had read the board to a meditation centre on our way in, we took a left and drove into the village yet again. We kept on driving for approximately 7-8 kms before reaching the Trekking Point again. The same bridge under construction lay in front of us. We returned from there. This part of the village has more water coimg down from the mountains. So, the greenery is more and there are numerous smal and big drains carrying water. Most of these, however, were dry at the moment, waiting to be fed by melting white sheets on top. We came back to the main road and soon reached the spot where we had seen that yellow top building. We left the road and went right till the gate to have a closer look ( it is a communication centre of Airport Authority of India)...
We moved on and crossed this bridge at Indus near Choglamsar. Flags on bridges is a common sight here but we have not seen more density of such flags on anyother bridge....(looks like a curtain)....
We reached home just in time as rain and strong winds took over the skies. A hot cup of tea and you wish for nothing more
19 April----It rained (and snowed in higher reaches) for later half of last night and the phenomenon carried on through out the day. It is 2115h and it is raining heavily outside. Our quarter is located at a height, roughly 100 odd feet higher that Leh city, and therefore, we get a mix of snow and rain. Snow, however, does not stay for long. It is a different story on higher reaches, though. Just to share some moments.....
This is Shanti STupa through the day. At 0800h in the morning.....
....and at 1400h in the day......
.......and finally at around 1800h in the evening......
Now, the Leh Town...for better part of the day...
Our backyard (it is higher than Leh proper)...
around breakfast time in the morning....
at around lunch time....
...tea time...
and while it was happening outside.....,
....she enjoyed it thoroughly before catching a well deserved nap.......
So, this is what it is here today. Frankly speaking, it is unexpected but weather forecasters were pretty sure about it.
Now, the month enters the last phase. I had an opportunity to have cup of tea with Nidhi a couple of days ago but then we decided to meet again on 22 April over a meal. Deepika had been busy of late and so was I. We requested Nidhi to join us for Lunch and three of us rescheduled our daily routines to be together. A few glimpses of the day. Here we see two Dudettes (Nidhi and Czia) and then three of them, Deepika included....
SUN Devta had been kind by now and weather, in spite of some cloudiness and a bit of windiness, had been holding OK for a while. But on 24 April, as I got up at 0500h to take three angels out for their morning walk, I saw this...
AND, BTW this is not January but fag end of April. I believe it is slightly warmer elsewhere (ha, ha). It had been snowing for quite sometime and it was still on at that point of time...
And how can I leave out my favourite landmark....the speck of light is Shanti Stupa being bombarded with snow..
And the area outside our fence...
By 0900h or so, it had piled up to almost a foot at places and then the change happened. Sun ji came out and called shots to show who was the real boss. By 1400h, it had all melted away. So much so that next day, a Sunday, when we got out to Hemis Gompa ( pl see below), there was no trace of fresh snow anywhere except higher reaches on Zanskar and Ladakh Ranges, that in any case have been white for long.
Visit to Hemis Gompa...
25 April 2010, a Sunday and time to explore a bit. Destination for the day was Hemis Monastery, near Kharu (locally pronounced as Kh'aru). It had been a bright, sunny day since morning. The previous week had been pretty unstable as far as local weather was concerned. It was, therefore, a good change and all the more reason to get out in sun. We had a late breakfast and then started towards Kharu on Leh-Manali Road. The drive, especially after crossing Choglamsar, was really a good cruise. With very less traffic, a bright atmosphere and a good road surface, it was a pleasure driving alongside Indus. Indus is just about returning to its original might, though not fully yet. We crossed Army station at Karu and took a right turn to cross Indus near Stakhna Hydel Project. Here we saw this....
The road after crossing Indus seems to take you nowhere. I mean once across the river, the landscape looks as barren as anywhere else. There are a few concentratioins of small and big electricity poles both with and without wires. Soon after crossing the bridge, one crosses a couple of buildings before hitting a unmarked bifrucation. Be sure to take the right of the fork. Now one is facing due west and travelling back towards Leh in a sense. After crossing the electricity ploes, you would come across another Y junction. Take left and face southwards. A few metres ahead one comes across a milestone announcing Hemis four Kms away, thereby, confirming the route. In mountains like these, things can be seen from kms away but here there is no sign of the settlement or gompa at all. The scenario does not change even when one travels a couple of kms more. The first signs are seen in the form of a very long Mane wall with integrated Chortens and a few flags on either side of the road. Soon after crossing Mane walls, there is one more bifrucation but the beauty is that you take either of two, you will land up in Hemis village that comes before the gompa. We had no idea of the layout at that time and took the left of the fork. A couple of bends and a bit of climb later, we came across a cricketing bonanza. We clicked this pic as one of the 'batslama' got run out...
It is somewhere here that you start to see the settlement. It is a prefectly hidden area and,thus, has a feel of isolation and eternal tranquility. BTW, this complex is situated inside Hemis National Park that is home to endangered snow leopards. A bit later and we were in the parking lot of the gompa. This board gives out some basic information about the gompa and its adjoining areas...
Some build on the information is as under...
The Hemis monastic complex is located at an altitude of 12,000 feet. As claimed in the information board, this is the biggest monastery of Ladakh (and probably the richest too). Hemis gompa is believed to have been established in 1630 by Lama Tagstang Raspa and built by Palden Sara under the patronage of King Sengge Namgyal. The start point of the construction has been a cave hermitage dating from the 12th century. This monastery belongs to the Kargyu School (and Red Hat Order).
The Gompa has been constructed by employing some of the unique construction techniques. The main building was constructed with a courtyard in front and the residential quarters for the Rinpoche offset to the East. A large assembly hall, a few additional buildings and the main entrance gate were added later on, almost a century later. The large courtyard and its enclosing gallery decorated with painted stone reliefs stand out and give this complex a distinction. So, its exteriors are unlike any other gompa found in the region. Even interiors are different because of its murals that incorporate numerous pigments and gold paint.
Here is Czia on the entrance gate..
The coutyard...
There is a system of entry ticket in the gompa. Timings are as under
However, the ticket counter was closed and it is yet to open for the season. The Lama ji on duty invited us inside the complex without any entrance fee. As we entered the courtyard, it had started to snow but the snowfall was so light that it was hardly discernable. Nevertheless, the ambient temperature fell sharply. The courtyard with long poles and an impressive gallery has a charming effect on the visitors. When viewed from the approach stairs, it looks very fascinating with its beauty enhanced by the snow-capped mountains in the background. The main door of the main temple was locked and was being guarded by a combination of a fierce looking deity and a massive lock....
The main temple has a spacious hall with a ferocious looking deity presiding over the proceedings.
A look at the offerings.....(the chamber smelt of xxx and cha'ng a bit)
On to left side, inside the hall, is an elevated platform with public address system, in front of which is a seating arrangement for monks to sit and recite.
The frescos are impressive but appear to be in need of repairs.
There was no light and one single CFL gave the place just about enough light. Height of the hall is more than two storeys. Thus, in such weather, it gave a feeling of being inside a chiller if not a freezer. Photography is permitted inside but no flashes are allowed. There were a few locals who had come to pay their respects. It is really amazing at times astonishing to see the kind of belief the locals have in the religion and the symbols of religion, like monasteries. As an outsider and a lay man, I find monasteries’ control over the locals as exploiting to some extent. Monasteries own most of the grazing and agricultural lands. Since ancient times, these institutions have been receiving returns in kind from the locals, have been playing the role of money lenders and have been dealing with mortgages. As can be deduced, such roles cannot be fulfilled without indulging in some business like practices that are not purely religious. As mentioned somewhere else, the life style of the monks is much better than that of average locals. And yet, locals hold them in awe. But honestly speaking, that is probably the right way of looking at life that is guided by strong religious beliefs.
We came out of the main hall with our earlobes frozen. Immediately on to the right and elevated on to the first floor is a temple of Padmasambhava.
Having paid our respects there, we moved on further up, to the roof top of the monastery. The views from the top are simply amazing. On one side, you see green huts of Kharu being overlooked by peaks of Ladakh Range while in the opposite direction, majestic Zanskar Range makes you feel so small.
In between these two sides is the view of adjoining areas to include living quarters of the monks, the courtyard, some glimpses of the school and village down below.
Vegetation is thin at present and thus the view remains more or less unobstructed. On the roof top are a few brass Kalshas and a roller over which the famous Tangkha is rolled to be unveiled once in 12 years during Hemis Festival in end June-July beginning.
We climbed down from the structure in to the courtyard to have a look-see. Strong winds had started to blow by that time but the snowing had vanished.
Outside the main gompa complex, are located a few parking lots and next to these are a restaurant and a picnic spot. Both were non-operative as of now. The monastery also offers stay options within the complex. Details are here….
We Started back from the gompa and took the other road going through the village.
So, it was a circular drive through the village. Just outside the village, on to left side of the road is this interesting rock….
The surface is poke-marked, full of stones and gives a look of a fossil. Some clutter of used bottles and chips packets around the rock leads us to believe that the rock happens to be a stop over for worthy tourists.
The interesting landscape...
As we come down from the village and reach the long Mane wall, we see a few rocks marked with numerals and a small camping area below. May be it is a rock climbing area but shall be activated later. We were soon out of the re-entrant that houses or hides the village and the gompa complex.
See this long Mane wall...and Latto next to it..
Once out in open, we reached the Y-junction on our way back. Instead of taking right to go back to Kharu, we took the left to see how far did that road go. We were now driving on the left bank of Indus, facing due West.
We crossed a construction workers camp of BRO before hitting a small settlement that neighbours a few government controlled farms and nurseries. A small distance ahead and we saw Stakna Gompa on to our right (across the river, with Thiksey Gompa shining in the background) and Matho gompa tucked inside Zanskar Range on our left. The road surface is not very good but it is metalled nevertheless. Also, there was absolutely no traffic on the stretch. Soon thereafter, a number of villages were crossed, all different parts of a larger settlement called Chushot. We reached the junction from where we could turn right and cross over to the highway at Choglamsar (Road to Stok goes left from here). But we decided to keep moving head on. So, we were now heading for Spituk, out-skirting the city of Leh. The road began to climb a bit as it hugged a fascinating looking hill side. Indus to our right had spread out quite a bit by now. It looked like a miniature delta of a river with numerous channels in a green, open and wide river bed. As the road swung right towards the silver painted bridge over the river, we saw a miniature version of Lamayuru landscape on to our right. Work of wind and water, the earthwork by nature looked good.
See this pic below and you will see an innovation...empty fruit/egg/milkmaid/milk powder tins are used to protect young plants from animals. Later on, these metallic tins become part of the tree..
We crossed the bridge into the congested village of Spituk that is dominated by a gompa of same name. There is a Hindu Temple on the banks of Indus that we decided to visit sometime later. We hit the Srinagar-Leh Highway and turned right to complete a huge circle extending over a 100 kms before heading for Gesmo for a quick bite.
Today is 30th and as we bid farewell to April, the outside temperature is 15.5 degrees but the sun is scroching hot, hot enough to burn the skin off!!!!19 April----It rained (and snowed in higher reaches) for later half of last night and the phenomenon carried on through out the day. It is 2115h and it is raining heavily outside. Our quarter is located at a height, roughly 100 odd feet higher that Leh city, and therefore, we get a mix of snow and rain. Snow, however, does not stay for long. It is a different story on higher reaches, though. Just to share some moments.....
This is Shanti STupa through the day. At 0800h in the morning.....
Now, the Leh Town...for better part of the day...
Our backyard (it is higher than Leh proper)...
around breakfast time in the morning....
and while it was happening outside.....,
So, this is what it is here today. Frankly speaking, it is unexpected but weather forecasters were pretty sure about it.
Now, the month enters the last phase. I had an opportunity to have cup of tea with Nidhi a couple of days ago but then we decided to meet again on 22 April over a meal. Deepika had been busy of late and so was I. We requested Nidhi to join us for Lunch and three of us rescheduled our daily routines to be together. A few glimpses of the day. Here we see two Dudettes (Nidhi and Czia) and then three of them, Deepika included....
SUN Devta had been kind by now and weather, in spite of some cloudiness and a bit of windiness, had been holding OK for a while. But on 24 April, as I got up at 0500h to take three angels out for their morning walk, I saw this...
...the speck of light is Shanti Stupa being bombarded with snow..Visit to Hemis Gompa...
25 April 2010, a Sunday and time to explore a bit. Destination for the day was Hemis Monastery, near Kharu (locally pronounced as Kh'aru). It had been a bright, sunny day since morning. The previous week had been pretty unstable as far as local weather was concerned. It was, therefore, a good change and all the more reason to get out in sun. We had a late breakfast and then started towards Kharu on Leh-Manali Road. The drive, especially after crossing Choglamsar, was really a good cruise. With very less traffic, a bright atmosphere and a good road surface, it was a pleasure driving alongside Indus. Indus is just about returning to its original might, though not fully yet. We crossed Army station at Karu and took a right turn to cross Indus near Stakhna Hydel Project. Here we saw this....
The Hemis monastic complex is located at an altitude of 12,000 feet. As claimed in the information board, this is the biggest monastery of Ladakh (and probably the richest too). Hemis gompa is believed to have been established in 1630 by Lama Tagstang Raspa and built by Palden Sara under the patronage of King Sengge Namgyal. The start point of the construction has been a cave hermitage dating from the 12th century. This monastery belongs to the Kargyu School (and Red Hat Order).
Here is Czia on the entrance gate..
The main temple has a spacious hall with a ferocious looking deity presiding over the proceedings.
On to left side, inside the hall, is an elevated platform with public address system, in front of which is a seating arrangement for monks to sit and recite.
We came out of the main hall with our earlobes frozen. Immediately on to the right and elevated on to the first floor is a temple of Padmasambhava.
The interesting landscape...
See this long Mane wall...and Latto next to it..
May 2010...
HANLE – A wide marshy landscape in the south western Ladakh had been a subject of fascination for long. Having seen a few videos and numerous magnificent pics of the landscape, it was but natural that we hit for the place on first available opportunity. The weekend over 01 May 2010, saw us packing our bags soon after the office hours and leaving on a trip that had been in waiting for quite some time. We left Leh at 1630h on Saturday. The destination for the night was Chumathang, three hours or 150 km away. Weather had been unsettled since morning and when we started, it was still gloomy and threatening but the intensity of ferocity had come down a bit. That encouraged us to move as per the plan. The drive out via Choglamsar, Kharu and Upshi was through a bit of traffic but post Upshi, it was virtually a free run. The weather held on as we drove through some of the scenic places and mountain landscape of great fascination. We crossed a number of villages to include Likchey, Hymia, Nurnis (also called Nee) amd Kiari before reaching Chumathang. Weather had been holding all this while but light had been fading fast. So, not many pics were taken, hoping to click some on our way back.
Indus flows all along the route. It remains on to right side of the road initially till Hymia where a girder bridge, at Rani Bagh locality, takes us across.
But the river is crossed yet again on the other side of the village via another girder bridge. Consequently, it remains on to right of the road (South) for well over 148 out of 150 km travel to Chumathang. At this time of the year, Indus looks pretty subdued and subtle. The melting snow makes it swell a bit in the afternoons but by morning, it gets back to a smaller and slower profile. Water, as of now, looks greenish blue at most of the places. Except for a few bottle necks, the flow is gentle and soothing to eyes. Though the weather had remained OK for us, the wet roads between Hymia and Kiari did indicate that there had been some rainfall in the evening. That reminded us of our Changthang-Rupshi ride of 2008 when we had got wet and had run short of petrol at Nyoma and we had to drive on this very road (opposite side) to reach Chumathang, looking for divine intervention (successfully, in the end).
The main reason for the planned halt/attraction of the place was now to be exploited. Chumathang is famous for its hot springs. But unlike another place famous for a similar virtue, Panamik, this place is well organized and much more scenic. There is a hydrotherapy centre being run by civil administration here. In addition to a few restaurants, it also has a camping ground (yet to become operational this season). But as mentioned elsewhere in this blog, locals consider quality of sulphurated water at Panamik far more superior to that obtained here. Nevertheless, it was the time to enjoy, relax and derive out as many good effects as being offered by the springs at Chumathang. The bathroom of our suite had running supply of this water coming directly to the bath tub. But it is so hot that one needs to run cold tap for as long a time as hot tap in order to have a reasonably balanced mix. Czia was the first one to jump in.
The maximum duration advised inside such water is 20 minutes. Chances of feeling giddy increase after 20 odd minutes. Be careful to apply mustard oil on skin to avoid rashes, if any. And of course, keep the eyes out of water. After a session each, we felt totally exhausted. Same thing had happened at the same place a couple of years ago and also at Vashishta (Manali) a few years before that. It so happens because numerous toxins present in the body are sucked out by this water when it comes in contact with skin. Our bodies, unfortunately used to adulterated fuel, react by slowing down while getting purified. Some rest is therefore advised after such activities. We had a sumptuous meal before hitting the sack. A sleepless night and we were ready to move on to our final destination the next morning.
A bright sun greeted us the next morning. We had a cup of tea and some fruits and opted to have our breakfast packed. The idea was to save time as also to take a breakfast break at some nice spot enroute. The drive ahead to Nyoma (42 Kms) via Mahe (midway) took us along Indus again.
We were also lucky to see a few of the migratory birds that flock to this part of Changthang and Rupshu Valley every summers. The birds, as per local info, have started to arrive since past one week or so. While we could not photograph the Black Necked Cranes, we could click a few others on our way back. At Mahe, a road to the left goes to Nunnery and beyond to Chushul, Tangtse. But this link is not fully metalled yet.
The drive till Loma, 21 Kms away, again followed Indus before crossing over at Loma check post.
This is also the point where Indus from East confluences with Hanle (Pronounced A’nle by locals) coming from South. We crossed over and found the junction to Dungti, Demchok just about 100m ahead. We followed the straight road running along the banks of Hanle River and crossed Rango/ Rongo after another five odd kms. Both Loma and Rongo being basically Chang’ pa villages, reflect a changing lifestyle of nomads. While majority of the community remains nomadic, a few have got settled in these villages. More about such changes, a bit later.
We had decided to take a break for breakfast somewhere beyond Rongo. But amazingly, the area lacks the greenery as also a bit of beauty as found along Indus, a few Kms to the North. In fact, beyond Rongo, start Hanle Plains. In sheer size, the plains can match up with More plains (as do the Nyoma plains between Nyoma and Loma). The only difference is the fact that while Nyoma plains are arched and curved, Hanle plains are straightish but narrower than More plains. The area is as barren and sandy as More plains plus there are numerous marshy patches here. Hanle river, at this time of the year, is at its minimal. The accompanying marsh lands are mostly dry and bear a whitish look because of mineral deposits left over by a mightier version the year before.
The first 25 Kms after Hanle were Ok with a narrow but black top road running along the contours of the landscape. There are so many hues and shades of the mountains that one tends to confer that between mountains, including snow covered tops, rivers and lakes of Ladakh, one can derive all possible shades of all possible colours that one may ever come across. Just about 24 Kms from Rongo, we saw a kuccha track, a road under construction, taking off to our right. We could see a wooden bridge on the river, approximately 200m to our right. So, we left the metalled road and drove our beast on the sandy-gravel track till the bank of the river. Time was ripe, if not over due, for a breakfast break. It was nice to have a short meal in the company of some Ki’angs and few flying birds that could not be identified.
We walked along the track on the other side of the river, just to see where did it lead to. But it was all wilderness and our guess could be anything from Chumur to some non-descript village in the wild West. We had our meal on the other side of the river before crossing back over to resume our journey ahead.
Less than half a Km ahead, we came to the end of the pucca road. Here on, the track was graveled, as it had been for years before the work on Rongo-Hanle stretch had started a couple of years back. Unfortunately, the track was bumpy due to blade cuts made by the earth movers and the car shook as a vulnerable leaf in amidst a storm. We opted to drive on the parallel tracks made by local drivers and defence vehicles. The going is smooth with firm sand holding the ground. It is so because of too less a traffic on this road. The use of alternate path has resulted in the original track disappearing at places.
However, a line of telephone poles help in navigation. In any case, the fortress looking palace-monastery complex of Hanle comes into the sight well 20 odd kms beforehand and serves as a good navigational point as well as a point of motivation. The view around are astounding and so beautiful that you tend to ignore the road condition and concentrate more on the scenic beauty. Sun and clouds create a magic on this vast, arid landscape. This phenomenon is unmatched and too beautiful to forget ever.
As we close on to the area called Hanle (BTW, there is one village called Hanle. There are a number of settlements along a vast marshland in the middle of which juts out a huge hill. Called Mount Saraswati now though the original name is Digpa-Ratsa Ri, this hill houses the highest observatory of the world.
The complete area, ie the marsh that surrounds the hill and includes the latter, is known as Nilamkhul, the line of telephone poles steers away to East. There is a tri-junction at the entrance to the main marsh – the metalled (surprised to see that patch) road to the left leads to a camp of BRO (they are constructing the road), a gravel track in the middle leads to observatory via a couple of villages (we did not know it at that time) and one to the right crosses a small iron bridge on its way to monastery and beyond ( to Chumar, in fact). We had tied up our night stay at a security forces camp at Hanle. Using logic and own intuition, we took the right fork. The aim was to see the observatory before checking in by lunch time, leaving visit to the monastery for the evening. We drove along the hill that houses the gompa. Below the gompa, in the shade of the hill, are located a number of houses and a temple. We moved on as the track became worse and worse. With water seeping on to the track that had greyish, sticky clay, the going was becoming rough by every meter. We crossed a group of soldiers who sat on the banks of marsh with one water channel running next to them, and checked on the route to the observatory. They pointed straight. We then asked about directions to their camp and they pointed in the same direction again. We moved on, negotiating knee deep water logged patches and a really bumpy road (dried out). All this while, we could see the observatory dome shining bright across the marsh. One thing was clear that marsh will have no road cutting across itself. The area is very wide and totally marshy even though the water level as of now is not much. So, our logic told us that may be we have to drive all along the circumference of that circular marsh to reach an access point to the observatory. But as we drove and drove, our logic appeared to be failing us somewhere. We crossed a junction where lay the camp, slightly offset to one side. A modified milestone indicated Chumar 100 Kms ahead. And even then, we carried on. We had decided not to leave the bowl and try our luck within the confines of the vast bowl so as not to wander across towards Chumar. As per the information available with us, the routes to Chumar (both from here and from Nyoma) were yet to be OK enough for 4x2 vehicles. We went ahead and it was only after Czia expressed her desire to attend nature’s call that we halted a few kms later. As we prepared to start on the hopeless journey once again, we saw a gypsy rushing towards us at a great speed. We saw an officer getting down and walking up to us soon thereafter. The officer from the camp had been expecting us and when he was informed about our passage and that too on a wrong route, he had decided to act rather than wait. It was a good decision in the end. We got back to the camp to freshen up a bit. It was still early in the day and lunch was not yet due (It is two hours’ drive from Nyoma). So, after some light refreshments, we decided to pay a visit to the observatory on Mount Saraswati. We crossed a field where pre-sowing work was going on. Unlike other parts of our country, people use mules to pull the ploughs and that too singly. It was an interesting sight for first timers like us.
We went back to the tri-junction below the monastery and took the middle fork now to drive through villages of Naga and Sadho to reach the local TV station of Hanle. From there on, a metalled road took off towards the observatory. The road climbs a winding route leading to the top. After a couple of turns, a branch shoots off to the right towards the guest house complex of the observatory. We had our confirmed reservation in one of the guestrooms there too (get it done from Astrophysics office at Leh; food is also provided) but we had decided to stay in the camp.
guest room complex as seen from top
We went right up to the top most point that has been leveled a bit to accommodate a few sensors. Once on top, we realized the uniqueness of the place that might have led the scientists to choose this as the location for the observatory. This hill is located in the middle of a vast plain of Nilamkhul that surrounds it from all four sides. It is like a heap of sugar in the middle of a huge platter. So, the height differential of more than 1000 ft from the surroundings, (4517 m v/s 4240m) coupled with a dry atmosphere having no light pollution, makes it an ideal place to house infra-red based sensors for astro-physical studies.
We returned from top to the main telescope location. The studies are done at a far off place in South based on the observations taken through the telescope here. The staff is totally local and while the station has huge generator sets, the main source of energy remains the solar power. A huge complex with modern gadgetry had taken ten years to complete and the work is still on. We were shown around inside by a technician who was kind enough to explain the massive two metres aperture optical-infrared telescope installed inside a huge dome. The upper half of the dome as well as the telescope can rotate 360 degrees.
He also demonstrated the opening of the top cover when telescope is deployed (they do not open it fully during day time). We were also taken to the control room that has internet connectivity and a LCD TV in addition to many computers and servers. He showed us a still of the previous night’s observations. In the end, it was an educative interaction, duly complemented by warm staff members.
We drove back to the camp for a tasty meal, followed by an afternoon siesta. After the evening tea, we started for the monastery that is located a couple of kms away. The drive on the road under construction was pretty interesting with small rocks and stones making noise under the wheels. The road passes through a small settlement that is connected with palace-gompa on top. One of the kings of ruling clan had died here on his way back from a conquest further South-East. So, it is a palace-cum-fort complex with an in-built monastery. As on today, the only thing functional there is the monastery. After parking the car, we walked up a steep, rocky slope to reach the northern part of this 17th century gompa.
To be honest, at the cost of repetition, I would say that even today, this gompa gives a feel of being a fortress rather than a gompa. Firstly, it is located at a strategic place that overlooks old Tibet-Leh trade route and secondly, its massive structure contains in-built minarets and watch towers unlike most of other gompas.
But little did we realize that we were heading for a shock. This is the most ill-maintained gompa or any other religious place we have ever visited. More than maintenance, it was lack of hygiene and basic cleanliness that hit us raw. There were heaps of dung and animal excreta lying all over the place. A few dried bushes had been scattered here and there, presumably to be used later. But the way the bushes had been thrown around, it gave a feel of utmost mismanagement. Condition of the building, its courtyards and walls, its tunnels and stairs are all in a derelict state.
We ambled through the stinking environment to find the main temple open. Two lamas, one in fifties and one just about ten or so, were busy with pooja. We went around without disturbing them and realized that all the art work and frescoes had been hidden behind a thick layer of smoke/soot on the walls.
Soon, the pooja finished and we interacted with the duo. We may be wrong but we realized that the older lama ji was probably under the influence of Cha’ng. He slurred a bit and behaved awkwardly. May be that was his mannerism. He showed us around the ruined place and opened another temple on top most floor. As per him, only two of them have been coming up for the rituals while others, some 30-odd lamas, stayed in the complex below. There were many empty bottles lying all over the place.
In the present state, we would recommend giving this gompa a skip. Hanle is bestowed with natural beauty that is unparalleled and unmatched. It would be better to devote sometime to lens and photography rather than visit such a badly maintained place of worship. But the views from the parapet, as said earlier on, of the gompa are outstandingly beautiful and deserve a visit from that angle...well, purely!!.
Our host had organized local fish for dinner. Touted as trout, it is actually not trout and has lots of bones. It was tasty nevertheless. After a long day, we called it a day after watching India win T20 match against South Africa in Caribbean. At 14000 plus height, one may get some sort of AMS but by now, we are well acclimatized and though we did gasp for some more oxygen at times, we had a comfortable night as the mercury dipped to sub-zero outside. Effect of this cold was felt only in the morning when our beast refused to start. There was no diesel in the pipes since it lay solidified in the filter that is located next to the rear wheel. Three-four mugs of hot water did the trick and it roared to life. We left the camp at 0900h for our return journey. It was a bright sunny day and drive was enjoyable throughout.
As we neared Rongo, we came across a rebba (temporary settlement) of a few Chang’pa families. With parachute tents in place for the summers, in lieu of yak wool ones, the living structures looked affected by the modernity. Solar panels, a scooter, a gypsy- all looked out of place but then this is what it is.It is not uncommon to find yaks and new generation vehicles parked/tied in such rebbas. There was another rebba across the river.
[CENTER]
We moved on and reached Nyoma at 1100h. Deepika had to meet someone there and so, we took a break at Nyoma.
Nyoma gompa
Chumathang Monastery (the village is hidden from the view from main road. one needs to leave the road and drive up a small road to reach the actual village)
We took a lunch break on a sandy bank of Indus near village Keshar.
Strong winds were blowing and stay got uncomfortable after a while. We moved off soon afterward. We came across a war memorial near Kiari. A symbol of secularism that binds us all, this memorial has tomb stones for soldiers of all religions and faiths.
We retraced our steps to hit Upshi at around 1600h. The petrol pump there is yet to become functional in spite of a lapse of a few years. We drove up the hill that houses our niche much before the sun began to set. Thereby, bringing an end to a weekend that saw us drive through a land of extra-ordinary natural beauty, a land of subtle vastness and a land where history of 17th century faces the marvels of 21st century across a vast marshy land.
May 2010 – What an unusual May this has been!! This month, by tradition, means more winds but increased mercury readings. A bright and uninterrupted sun is supposed to ring in summers to this frozen land. But then that has been just ‘traditionally’. This year, it was to be a deviation. Right through the month, in fact, continuing from last month, it has been a regime of clouds, snow, rains, landslides and cloudbursts with sun shining whenever it could. Wind pattern, however, remained unchanged. Zoji La opened early this year. There were a few spells of warm weather right in the month of April but the pattern of inconsistency continued from last month. It had snowed in the last week of April while sun had burnt hot the next day. So, it has been a different May.
I had to move out of the town on 07th for a two odd weeks long trip to geographical centre of our great country. What a change it was! From a refrigerator straight into a furnace. At 47 degrees, that place burnt and made me more home-sick than ever. It was 5 degrees when I landed up at Leh at 0625h on 23rd. Deepika had been keeping a track of weather in my absence. It rained thrice in the town while it snowed more than seven times on the higher reaches while I had been away. Before I left, I could see many commercial establishments cleaning and gearing up for the upcoming season. Now that I am back and we are into last few days of the month, I find all those shops and restaurants now fully open. And still, only 70 odd per cent of the market is open as of now. Most of the establishments on lower end of Fort Road, parts of lane joining SBI with J&K Bank, a bit of Old Road, majority of make shift Tibetan markets and even a few in Changspa are yet to become operational. Tourists, however, are already in good numbers. Parking woes have already started though road traffic is not full as yet.
Poor weather saw a tragedy near Chang La a few days back. Because of snow slides, a tourist vehicle had got stuck in thick snow where passage had been cleared by the authorities. As the vehicle struggled to find traction, a few people from following vehicles rushed to help. A couple had been travelling in the ill-fated vehicle. The man came out and joined the pushing effort. At that moment, with no warning whatsoever, an avalanche got triggered and it hit the place with usual ferocity. One government officer who had been in help party, got killed as also the tourist who had come out. A few others got injured as the lady went into mental trauma. Even today, the stretches on either side of Mighty Chang La remain tricky to drive through. There were fifty odd vehicles that remained stuck in that area for a few hours yesterday. Talking of going, Wari La is shut and so is Manali-Leh road that has not opened yet. Road to Zanskar had been cleared till Pansi La but fresh snow fall around Rungdum has forced the clearance party to turn back and clear the trail rather than moving ahead. Zoji La opened the day before after a brief spell of closure. Khardung La is one way as of now.
A delegation from Mangolia was here earlier this month to commemorate 55th year of diplomatic relations between India and Mangolia. In addition to other interactive activities, a cultural evening-cum-dinner was hosted by the administration.
Not to be left behind, Czia went dressed for the occasion (and so did Deepika), attired in Ladakhi and Tibetan Traditional dresses....
Things are changing fast but traditionally, houses are built with mud bricks and a roof made of mud well beaten on top of dried tree stems (as rafters) and tree branches (matrix). Nowadays, it is RCC at many places. It never reained very heavily here in the past. So, a mud roof would be no issue. Weather is changing slowly and with more greenery in, there are more frequent and heavier showers these days. But even now, many locals go for old building techniques. A majority of town people prefer a mix of two, ie, a portion of the house with old type mud roof and balance with RCC ones. This is clearly an attempt to create a fusion. By the way, mud bricks (not baked) were costing Rs 2-3 a piece till last September. This year, the going rate is Rs 8-9 per piece. Inflation is showing up here too. The following picture shows tree branches and stems being cleaned up before using the same for constuction...
27 May 2010...Budh Purnima Day and an occasion for religious festivites. One thing stands out here when it comes to such occasions. Locals head for monasteries on the hills all over the place to pay respects to the deities. So, while the main mela or function or show or ceremony may be organised at one particular place, it is not unusual to see locals climbing Shanti Stupa or Tsemo Castle while a huge crowd may congregate at the actual site of organised celebrations.
The main function consisting of religio-cultural events had been organised at Polo Grounds at Leh. People love to be part of such events. We had seen a huge turn out in bone chilling winters for 26 January celebrations. Today was no different. The weather had been great since morning and when the actual ceremony began at 1200h, sun had been shining bright for long. Venerable Rinponche presided over the function that saw various cultural societies and school children performing in front of a huge applauding crowd. It was heartening to see the discipline being observed by hundreds of school children who sat as spectators through out four hours of event.
Also pleasing was the fact that in addition to dignitaries, tea and refreshments were served to all the school children and most of the spectators. Ladakh Buddhist Association did well to organise such a hassle free function at such a scale. Sun started to play hide and seek soon after the function started. Soon, there were dark clouds, some drizzle and a few flakes of wet snow. It remained rough for over an hour or so. But function went on unaffected. There was no curtailing of the cultural show nor anyone moved out, barring a few with very young children.
Some order got restored after an hour or so but sun never came out again in full spirits and we could sense fresh snowfalls all around the town, on higher reaches.
Czia sat/played around through the function....
By the time the function got over, it was half past four. Time to rush home for a cup of tea with dark clouds creating a mood.
While we enjoy changing moods of nature, I sincerely feel a bit concerned about all those guys who are planning to travel this side in coming days. Zoji La axis is operational but Manali is shut as also Zanskar. Today, K'La is also closed but would open soon. We pray that all you guys do not get bogged down due to these limitations!!
Just an update....Track (not road) between Khalsar/Thangiar (NUBRA-WARI LA Road) and Shyok is open though not in a good state. It is not metalled yet. Beyond Shyok and towards Tangtse, it is OK. Now, this info is half confirmed and will be corroborated soon!!
Mourning I take this opportunity to share a custom that is followed here. In the previous post, I had written about an accident at Chang La. One of the two men killed there was a government employee and a Muslim by faith. Deepika, therefore, went to the family to condole. The procedure followed, as witnessed by her, is pretty different but practical. People who go to mourn the death, carry biscuit packets for the family. Alternatively, they buy the biscuits from the aggrieved family itself (recycled) and then leave the packets on a table inside the house. The nears and the actual family members sit in two separate groups- males and females separately. The mourners simply enter the house, leave biscuit packets on a table, then enter these two rooms one after another, give tap on the shoulders of the family members (irrespective of sex) and keep filing out of the house. This tradition is followed both by Buddhist and Muslim communities. Essentially, the affected family keeps the initial lot of biscuits for selling the same to next lot of mourners. Some revenue is, thus, generated to cover the expenses of the ceremony though I am not sure about this very aim of such a custom. But it looks practical and helps the family to tide over the rough patch.
Gompa or monastery means a solitary place. Since the advent of Buddhism, it has been playing a central role in religious, political, military and civic activities of the communities that adopted Buddhism as religion. Historically, Buddhism had started to spread more as a way of education than a religion per se. So, in the initial days, gompas came up in two forms – Avasa (temporary in nature and more so in rural and nomadic settings) and Arama (more permanent and usually associated with urban settlements of that era). Typically, a gompa would start as a seat of learning where learned scholars would study, meditate and congregate for learned discussions. Some influential patrons would donate well to support the construction of a common hall for all such activities. It would also be usual to have a boundary wall around such halls. In return, scholars will then initiate such patrons and allow them to participate in learned discussion. Such a privilege was not allowed to commoners. As the populations grew and number of scholars and monks went up, such basic structures slowly and steadily evolved into gompas as we see today. In general, every gompa has religious, administrative, residential portions. Typically, a gompa will have the following structures
--Guha or Iha-khang or Main Sanctum. It will have Du-khang or assembly room and Go-khang/ La-khang or inner chamber. Inner chambers are generally out of bounds for ladies unless the deities inside are fully covered or the chamber itself is totally dark.
-- Hanumiya or administrative block will generally be multi-storeyed.
--Pasada or residential block which will also be multi-storeyed generally. Monks live in Viharas and Vihara of a head priest or Rinponche is referred to as Zimchung.
--Gon-khang houses weapons and masks and will generally be co-located with Guha.
Gompas have a big role to play in the lives of people who live around these monasteries. It is not unusual to find a village located on the foothills of gompas. Gompas control major chunks of lands, both cultivable and grazing pastures. The population that uses such lands, is duty bound to offer returns in cash or kind. Political as well as social life of the settlements is highly influenced by these gompas. As mentioned elsewhere in this diary, Monks or lamas, because of the control that they have over the population as also because of religious faith that the population has in them, enjoy privileged life-styles, as compared to public at large. Guru Gantal Gompa at Tandi, Keylong, is the oldest gompa in Indian Himalayas.
While it is usual to associate gompas with Buddhism, it may be interesting to note that Buddhism spread to Tibet from India rather than other way around. By second century, Kashmir had come under ever-increasing influence of Buddhism from central India. King Ashok had a big role to play in this vast spread of Buddhism. At that point of time, Tibet had a paganish religion, called Bon. As the Buddhism reached Ladakh through Kashmir, a phenomenon called First Spreading of Buddhism took place wherein Padmasambhava took this religion to Tibet. Unfortunately, while the new religion in Tibet was expanding, Indian mainland saw a steady decline of Buddhism. As a result, barring a few locations in central India and Ladakh, Buddhism simply gave way to more aggressive forms of other religions. While Ladakh clung to Buddhism, rest of the country gave up on it. Then came in the phase referred to as Second Spreading of Buddhism. This time, it came from Tibet into India. But owing to the process of evolution, a clash within Buddhism took place between native forms and the one that had made its way from Tibet. In the end, it acquired a commonality that is so much alive and in practice even today.
....to be continued...May 2010 – What an unusual May this has been!! This month, by tradition, means more winds but increased mercury readings. A bright and uninterrupted sun is supposed to ring in summers to this frozen land. But then that has been just ‘traditionally’. This year, it was to be a deviation. Right through the month, in fact, continuing from last month, it has been a regime of clouds, snow, rains, landslides and cloudbursts with sun shining whenever it could. Wind pattern, however, remained unchanged. Zoji La opened early this year. There were a few spells of warm weather right in the month of April but the pattern of inconsistency continued from last month. It had snowed in the last week of April while sun had burnt hot the next day. So, it has been a different May.
I had to move out of the town on 07th for a two odd weeks long trip to geographical centre of our great country. What a change it was! From a refrigerator straight into a furnace. At 47 degrees, that place burnt and made me more home-sick than ever. It was 5 degrees when I landed up at Leh at 0625h on 23rd. Deepika had been keeping a track of weather in my absence. It rained thrice in the town while it snowed more than seven times on the higher reaches while I had been away. Before I left, I could see many commercial establishments cleaning and gearing up for the upcoming season. Now that I am back and we are into last few days of the month, I find all those shops and restaurants now fully open. And still, only 70 odd per cent of the market is open as of now. Most of the establishments on lower end of Fort Road, parts of lane joining SBI with J&K Bank, a bit of Old Road, majority of make shift Tibetan markets and even a few in Changspa are yet to become operational. Tourists, however, are already in good numbers. Parking woes have already started though road traffic is not full as yet.
Poor weather saw a tragedy near Chang La a few days back. Because of snow slides, a tourist vehicle had got stuck in thick snow where passage had been cleared by the authorities. As the vehicle struggled to find traction, a few people from following vehicles rushed to help. A couple had been travelling in the ill-fated vehicle. The man came out and joined the pushing effort. At that moment, with no warning whatsoever, an avalanche got triggered and it hit the place with usual ferocity. One government officer who had been in help party, got killed as also the tourist who had come out. A few others got injured as the lady went into mental trauma. Even today, the stretches on either side of Mighty Chang La remain tricky to drive through. There were fifty odd vehicles that remained stuck in that area for a few hours yesterday. Talking of going, Wari La is shut and so is Manali-Leh road that has not opened yet. Road to Zanskar had been cleared till Pansi La but fresh snow fall around Rungdum has forced the clearance party to turn back and clear the trail rather than moving ahead. Zoji La opened the day before after a brief spell of closure. Khardung La is one way as of now.
A delegation from Mangolia was here earlier this month to commemorate 55th year of diplomatic relations between India and Mangolia. In addition to other interactive activities, a cultural evening-cum-dinner was hosted by the administration.
27 May 2010...Budh Purnima Day and an occasion for religious festivites. One thing stands out here when it comes to such occasions. Locals head for monasteries on the hills all over the place to pay respects to the deities. So, while the main mela or function or show or ceremony may be organised at one particular place, it is not unusual to see locals climbing Shanti Stupa or Tsemo Castle while a huge crowd may congregate at the actual site of organised celebrations.
While we enjoy changing moods of nature, I sincerely feel a bit concerned about all those guys who are planning to travel this side in coming days. Zoji La axis is operational but Manali is shut as also Zanskar. Today, K'La is also closed but would open soon. We pray that all you guys do not get bogged down due to these limitations!!
Just an update....Track (not road) between Khalsar/Thangiar (NUBRA-WARI LA Road) and Shyok is open though not in a good state. It is not metalled yet. Beyond Shyok and towards Tangtse, it is OK. Now, this info is half confirmed and will be corroborated soon!!
Mourning I take this opportunity to share a custom that is followed here. In the previous post, I had written about an accident at Chang La. One of the two men killed there was a government employee and a Muslim by faith. Deepika, therefore, went to the family to condole. The procedure followed, as witnessed by her, is pretty different but practical. People who go to mourn the death, carry biscuit packets for the family. Alternatively, they buy the biscuits from the aggrieved family itself (recycled) and then leave the packets on a table inside the house. The nears and the actual family members sit in two separate groups- males and females separately. The mourners simply enter the house, leave biscuit packets on a table, then enter these two rooms one after another, give tap on the shoulders of the family members (irrespective of sex) and keep filing out of the house. This tradition is followed both by Buddhist and Muslim communities. Essentially, the affected family keeps the initial lot of biscuits for selling the same to next lot of mourners. Some revenue is, thus, generated to cover the expenses of the ceremony though I am not sure about this very aim of such a custom. But it looks practical and helps the family to tide over the rough patch.
Gompa or monastery means a solitary place. Since the advent of Buddhism, it has been playing a central role in religious, political, military and civic activities of the communities that adopted Buddhism as religion. Historically, Buddhism had started to spread more as a way of education than a religion per se. So, in the initial days, gompas came up in two forms – Avasa (temporary in nature and more so in rural and nomadic settings) and Arama (more permanent and usually associated with urban settlements of that era). Typically, a gompa would start as a seat of learning where learned scholars would study, meditate and congregate for learned discussions. Some influential patrons would donate well to support the construction of a common hall for all such activities. It would also be usual to have a boundary wall around such halls. In return, scholars will then initiate such patrons and allow them to participate in learned discussion. Such a privilege was not allowed to commoners. As the populations grew and number of scholars and monks went up, such basic structures slowly and steadily evolved into gompas as we see today. In general, every gompa has religious, administrative, residential portions. Typically, a gompa will have the following structures
--Guha or Iha-khang or Main Sanctum. It will have Du-khang or assembly room and Go-khang/ La-khang or inner chamber. Inner chambers are generally out of bounds for ladies unless the deities inside are fully covered or the chamber itself is totally dark.
-- Hanumiya or administrative block will generally be multi-storeyed.
--Pasada or residential block which will also be multi-storeyed generally. Monks live in Viharas and Vihara of a head priest or Rinponche is referred to as Zimchung.
--Gon-khang houses weapons and masks and will generally be co-located with Guha.
Gompas have a big role to play in the lives of people who live around these monasteries. It is not unusual to find a village located on the foothills of gompas. Gompas control major chunks of lands, both cultivable and grazing pastures. The population that uses such lands, is duty bound to offer returns in cash or kind. Political as well as social life of the settlements is highly influenced by these gompas. As mentioned elsewhere in this diary, Monks or lamas, because of the control that they have over the population as also because of religious faith that the population has in them, enjoy privileged life-styles, as compared to public at large. Guru Gantal Gompa at Tandi, Keylong, is the oldest gompa in Indian Himalayas.
While it is usual to associate gompas with Buddhism, it may be interesting to note that Buddhism spread to Tibet from India rather than other way around. By second century, Kashmir had come under ever-increasing influence of Buddhism from central India. King Ashok had a big role to play in this vast spread of Buddhism. At that point of time, Tibet had a paganish religion, called Bon. As the Buddhism reached Ladakh through Kashmir, a phenomenon called First Spreading of Buddhism took place wherein Padmasambhava took this religion to Tibet. Unfortunately, while the new religion in Tibet was expanding, Indian mainland saw a steady decline of Buddhism. As a result, barring a few locations in central India and Ladakh, Buddhism simply gave way to more aggressive forms of other religions. While Ladakh clung to Buddhism, rest of the country gave up on it. Then came in the phase referred to as Second Spreading of Buddhism. This time, it came from Tibet into India. But owing to the process of evolution, a clash within Buddhism took place between native forms and the one that had made its way from Tibet. In the end, it acquired a commonality that is so much alive and in practice even today.
Buddhist Orders and Headgears There are a total of five Orders in Buddhism ( a few scholars recognise four Orders....see ahead). These Orders are common to both Tibet and Ladakh. However, inter-se importance/dominance differs in both the regions. Here is a brief account of these Orders....
--Nying-ma-pa : This order was propagated by Padmasambhava who actually took Buddhism from India to Tibet during First Spreading of Buddhism in the second half of eighth century AD. Also referred to as Old School, this Order is known for first ever translation of Buddhist teachings from Sanskrit to Tibetan. Based on Indian Tantric teachings, this Orders centres around Book of Dead. There are two sects within this Order – White and Red Sangha. While Red Sangha means complete celibacy, the White Sangha adds practicality to this Order in the sense that latter does not imply strict celibacy. The practicality lies in the fact that followers can switch between these two sanghas as per requirements of life during different stages. This Order lays stress on solitary meditation and hermitages. Today, only one monastery in Ladakh follows this Order, ie, Thak-Thak Gompa (near Sakti) but this Order has an overwhelming presence in the Kham District of Eastern Tibet.
--Ka-gyu-pa : This Order is based on school of Oral Tradition (teachings of Indian Masters in line with Hindu Yoga Philosophy and originating from Nalanda University). This Order has its origin in newer Tantric teachings in 10th century AD though it hit prominence during 12th century. Since the teachings flowed orally from guru to disciple, this Order suffered huge distortions due to different personalities that carried forward the tradition. The two major Orders that flowed out of this Order are considered as second and third Orders though a few historians look at Ka-gyu-pa as one single Order (in such a case, there are only four Orders in Buddhism). The two Orders are as under
-- Dri-gungpa : Lamayuru and Phiyang Gompas in Ladakh follow this order.
--Sasky-pa : Also referred to as Sakya-pa, this Order came into being in 11th century during translation of Sanskrit teachings into Tibetan. The first monastery of this Order came up in 1070s in Southern Tibet. This Order is associated with another Indian Master, Virupa and is inspired by yogic teachings. This is the smallest of all orders found in Ladakh. Matho is the only monastery that follows this Order and this gompa is also known for oracles.
--Ge-lugs-pa : Also referred to as Yellow Hats, this Order evolved from erstwhile Ka-dam-pa sect in 14th century. The first gompa of this Order was established in Gaden in Tibet. This Order dominates Central Tibet and was the most powerful in 16th century. In fact, it came into being on the pretext that all other Orders had been corrupted by then. This order played a significant role in second spreading when Buddhism re-entered Ladakh, this time from East. Gompas at Spituk, Tikhse and Likir follow this Order. Present Dalai Lama belongs to this Order.
In common references, all sects/orders other than Yellow Hats are referred to as Red Hats. One sect of Ka-gyu-pa Order is also sometimes referred to as Black Hats because of their religious head wearing black cap. It may be noted that these coloured hats are generally worn only during ceremonial functions. In day to day life, all monks wear brick coloured robes and it becomes impossible to make out as to which order anyone of them belongs to.
Also, old gompas of Lamayuru, Wanle, Mang-gyu and Sumda actually belonged to none of these orders, being older. They were then taken over by Yellow Hats except Lamayuru that went to Ka-gyu-pa.
Writing about headgears, it may be noted that even Muslims in Ladakh have a system of recognition based on headgears. Balti Shia Muslims dominate Kargil District and Chushot areas of Leh. In their community, Aghas (direct descendants of Prophet) wear black turbans. But those who have had the privilege of studying in Iran/Iraq, wear White turbans, on their return, and are referred to as Sheikhs.
this is how sky has been showing itself for last ten days or so...--Nying-ma-pa : This order was propagated by Padmasambhava who actually took Buddhism from India to Tibet during First Spreading of Buddhism in the second half of eighth century AD. Also referred to as Old School, this Order is known for first ever translation of Buddhist teachings from Sanskrit to Tibetan. Based on Indian Tantric teachings, this Orders centres around Book of Dead. There are two sects within this Order – White and Red Sangha. While Red Sangha means complete celibacy, the White Sangha adds practicality to this Order in the sense that latter does not imply strict celibacy. The practicality lies in the fact that followers can switch between these two sanghas as per requirements of life during different stages. This Order lays stress on solitary meditation and hermitages. Today, only one monastery in Ladakh follows this Order, ie, Thak-Thak Gompa (near Sakti) but this Order has an overwhelming presence in the Kham District of Eastern Tibet.
--Ka-gyu-pa : This Order is based on school of Oral Tradition (teachings of Indian Masters in line with Hindu Yoga Philosophy and originating from Nalanda University). This Order has its origin in newer Tantric teachings in 10th century AD though it hit prominence during 12th century. Since the teachings flowed orally from guru to disciple, this Order suffered huge distortions due to different personalities that carried forward the tradition. The two major Orders that flowed out of this Order are considered as second and third Orders though a few historians look at Ka-gyu-pa as one single Order (in such a case, there are only four Orders in Buddhism). The two Orders are as under
-- Dri-gungpa : Lamayuru and Phiyang Gompas in Ladakh follow this order.
-- Drug-pa : Also called Red Hats,this Order has traditionally enjoyed the patronage of
royal family of Ladakh. Hanle, Hemis, Chemrey and Stakna gompas follow this Order.
Continued support from Namgyal rulers of Ladakh has helped this Order prospered through
the centuries of its presence in Himalayas.
royal family of Ladakh. Hanle, Hemis, Chemrey and Stakna gompas follow this Order.
Continued support from Namgyal rulers of Ladakh has helped this Order prospered through
the centuries of its presence in Himalayas.
--Sasky-pa : Also referred to as Sakya-pa, this Order came into being in 11th century during translation of Sanskrit teachings into Tibetan. The first monastery of this Order came up in 1070s in Southern Tibet. This Order is associated with another Indian Master, Virupa and is inspired by yogic teachings. This is the smallest of all orders found in Ladakh. Matho is the only monastery that follows this Order and this gompa is also known for oracles.
--Ge-lugs-pa : Also referred to as Yellow Hats, this Order evolved from erstwhile Ka-dam-pa sect in 14th century. The first gompa of this Order was established in Gaden in Tibet. This Order dominates Central Tibet and was the most powerful in 16th century. In fact, it came into being on the pretext that all other Orders had been corrupted by then. This order played a significant role in second spreading when Buddhism re-entered Ladakh, this time from East. Gompas at Spituk, Tikhse and Likir follow this Order. Present Dalai Lama belongs to this Order.
In common references, all sects/orders other than Yellow Hats are referred to as Red Hats. One sect of Ka-gyu-pa Order is also sometimes referred to as Black Hats because of their religious head wearing black cap. It may be noted that these coloured hats are generally worn only during ceremonial functions. In day to day life, all monks wear brick coloured robes and it becomes impossible to make out as to which order anyone of them belongs to.
Also, old gompas of Lamayuru, Wanle, Mang-gyu and Sumda actually belonged to none of these orders, being older. They were then taken over by Yellow Hats except Lamayuru that went to Ka-gyu-pa.
Writing about headgears, it may be noted that even Muslims in Ladakh have a system of recognition based on headgears. Balti Shia Muslims dominate Kargil District and Chushot areas of Leh. In their community, Aghas (direct descendants of Prophet) wear black turbans. But those who have had the privilege of studying in Iran/Iraq, wear White turbans, on their return, and are referred to as Sheikhs.
Geography for Lay personnel Who Hate it!!
Here are some geographical facts, made easy for travellers who love landscapes but hate looking at maps...
MOUNTAIN RANGES
When we look at Ladakh and journey into its highlands, we concern ourselves with seven mountain ranges. The rough layout of these watersheds and high ranges is as under
Starting first from South, Shivalik Ranges fall in the category of sub Himalayan or outer Himalayan ranges. These ranges are characterised by presence of round rocks and stones. The weight ratio of rocks to the mud is tilted in the favour of the former and therefore, these ranges are prone to landslides. This is a massive, 1650km long range that originates from Indus Valley in Pakistan and goes all the way to Sikkim where it finishes next to another river, Tista. Unlike other ranges in question, width of this range is not much and average height is in the range of 3500ft. Hills around Jammu, Udhampur, Pathankot, Pinjore, Dehradun, parts of Jim Corbett Park, Terai Hills, Chitwan in Nepal and further running eastwards form part of this range.
Dhauladhar Range, the abode of Lord Shiva, consists of thickly forested mountains with a characteristic mist and fog. It also falls in the category of outer or lesser Himalayas. Higher peaks receive fair amount of snowfall but it is the greenery of Deodar and Fir trees that makes this range so fascinating. Hanuman Ka Tibba at 18,525ft in Dharamsala area is the crown of this range while Mani Mahesh (Indian Kailash) is probably the most sacred of all in this range. Because of the height, this peak, like many other peaks of this range, remains snow clad. This range virtually begins (Dalhousie) and finishes in Himachal Pradesh (actually terminates at Badrinath in Garhwal). Steep dark granite slopes add a touch of class to this beautiful range that gets dissected by Bias River above Mandi. One distinct feature of the range is slate deposits. In fact, slate roof is a very normal sight in the villages of this range. The average height of the range is well above 5000m. Dalhousie, Mcleodganj, Chamba, Kangra Valley, Mandi, Khajiar, Bharmour and such areas lie in the foothills of this great range. Known for Gaddhis or Pahari people, this range intercepts monsoons twice an year, thereby, ensuring perpetual greenery for itself. This range actually connects physically with Pir Panjal Range near Chamba.
Pir Panjal is a 350-odd Km long range that rises from Kishanganga River basin in POK and merges with Dhauladhar Range in Himachal Pradesh. This range separates Jammu from Kashmir Valley, Ravi from Chandrabhagha basin as also Kullu from Lahaul. Jawahar Tunnel has been dug across this range that has an average height of approximately 13,000 ft. Its lesser length notwithstanding, it is a massive, dominating range with numerous peaks. Haji Pir, Pir Panjal, Banihal, Sythen, Sach and Rohtang Passes are located on this range. Belonging to the category of middle or inner Himalayas, this range boasts of Muree, Gulmarg, Uri bowl, Poonch, Kashmir Valley, Kishtwar, Lahaul and Manali that are situated on either side of it. With the on-going work on Mughal Road, another passage, in addition to passes enumerated above, via Pir Gali Pass, is under construction. (..more about its alignment, please see ahead)
Great Himalayan Range (GHR) originates from Great Karakoram Range at Burzi Bal in PoK. It then runs Southeast towards Zoji La via three major passes, viz, Mir Panzil Pass (North of famous hill station of Minimarg in Pok), Karobal Gali (one of the major sources of water for Kishan Ganga River) and Bot Gulan Kanj Pass (in the North of Sonamarg; from here, a branch of Pir Panjal Ranges runs westward overlooking Kangan and beyond). Zoji La, by the way, is not a typical pass in a classical sense. It is just a step from lower base of Kashmir into the highlands of Ladakh. As the range moves down South, at a point that is around 10 kms Northeast of Panjtarni (Amarnath pilgrimage fame), a branch of Pir Panjal Range takes off towards Southeast. (This branch would finally go down to Banihal and beyond via Rangwar and Agashmandal. From Agashmandal, one more branch of Pir Panjal would go Southeast to Kandi Pass at Tirtu, just North of our favourite Sach Pass. From Tirtu, it turns Northeastwards to meet Great Himalayan Range (GHR) once again, at Kangla Jot (South of Padam and North of Chamba). GHR that has been running West and South of road Kargil-Padum, now continues from Kangla Jot in a Southeast direction towards Baralacha La and beyond towards Spiti, thus forming a barrier between Ladakh and Spiti. It would then enter Tibet and having given passage to Sutluj River on Indo-Tibetan border, it continues into Tibet, Nepal and beyond. Some of the world’s highest peaks, including Mt Everest, lie on this massive range. Within Ladakh, Nun and Kun are the highest peaks of this range and Umasi La pass that joins Zanskar with Kishtwar (Paddar), also lies on this mighty range. Umba La that separates Drass from Suru Valley also lies on one of its branch that runs parallel and South of road Zoji La-Drass-Kargil. Keylong, Jispa, Darcha, Patseo and Zingzing Bar are thus sandwiched between Pir Panjal and GHR. The average height of GHR with in Ladakh is around 17000 ft.
Zanskar Range takes off from Ladakh Range at a point East of Chorbat La, approximately 20 Kms due North of Dah-Hanu. It runs due South, crosses Indus at Biamah and down to Fotu La on NH. From here, one branch keeps going down South to Lingshet before turning Southeast and getting cut by Zanskar River coming from Padum, at a point just East of Parfi La. There after, it continues South-eastward via Namcha La, Morang La before turning back towards Northeast and then Southwest towards Phise La before hitting Great Himalayan Range perpendicularly at a point approximately 15 Kms West of Baralacha La. One more branch, the one which is more visible to travellers, bifurcates from Lamayuru near Fotu La and moves Southeast towards Chilling, overlooking Markha Valley. This branch is the one that is seen across Indus when one travels on the NH joining Kargil with Leh. This branch also separates Markha River basin from that of Indus. Zanskar River cuts through it at Chiling. Stok Kangri Range lies on this branch or rather this is how it is referred to as it inches close to Leh. Hemis gompa, Tanglang La, Lungalacha La, Tso Kar, Tso Tazangkuru, Tso Moriri, Chumur, Hanle are the famous landmarks on this branch. As it travels to Tibet, it remains to West of road Loma- Hanle and crosses over to Tibet in the South of Hanle. Lofty mountains of this range remain snow clad for most part of the year but this phenomenon is more because of freezing temperatures that preserve ice for longer periods than a very heavy snowfall that Great Himalayan Range receives. Thus, between Zanskar and Great Himalayan Ranges, lie [BBharatpur,]Korzok, Sarchu and Pang[/B]. The average height of the range hovers around 15,000 ft.
Ladakh Range, that majestic series of peaks immediately to the North of Leh town, actually takes off Great Karakoram Range in Northeast of Ganse La in Skardu (PoK). It then runs down to Chorbat La (from where Zanskar Range begins) and turns Eastward to Khaltse, remaining to North of Indus all this while. Its main ridge then runs North of Saspol and Likir via Niming and passes like Wuleh La, Lago La and Nia La (these passes separate Likir area from Nubra), further down to Khardung La, Digar La, Wari La and Chang La. At Chang La, it bifurcates into two branches. The one running to the Northeast, travels to Tsoltak and Durbukh before joining Pangong Mountain that cuts it perpendicularly and shields Shyok River that is further to its North. The second branch is much more elongated and it takes off in South-easterly direction from Chang La towards Chhachan Hills, South of Tangtse-Chushul road. This branch separates rd Upshi-Nyoma from road Tangtse-Chushul-Nyoma. Chumathang lies on its Southern edge while Chushul, Rezangla, Tara lie on its Northern edge. This range makes a rounded arc as it gets intercepted by Indus at Pibuk-Loma-Nyoma area. Hanle River joins Indus at Loma. This branch, thereafter, runs South-eastward across Indus, into Hanle plains. Demchok would be on its Eastern side while Rongo, road to Hanle and Hanle bowl remain to its South. Once in Tibet, it will join Kailash Range from where Indus originates. Pangong Mountain is a subsidiary of this branch of Ladakh Range. It runs parallel to this branch, separated by road Tangtse-Chushul. This mountain originates from Ahagam near Khalsar in Shyok/ Nubra Valley, just North of Digar Village. It then runs parallel and South of Shyok River till Tangtse. Remaining South to Pangong Tso lake (Pagal Nallah originates in it), it dominates Chushul Plains from North. At Chushul, it bifurcates into two branches. The one running due East to Tibet, separates Pangong Tso from Spanggur Tso while the one running Southeast, separates Spanggur Tso from Chushul plains and Rezangla as also road Chushul-Nyoma. The average height of this barren, rocky range is approximately 15500 ft.
The Great Karakoram Range originates in Baltistan with K2 as world’s second highest peak located in PoK. Portion of this mighty range that comes to Ladakh is actually not as grand as rest of the range. Saser Kangri at 7672m is its crown in Ladakh. But Ladakh Karakoram boasts of one of the greatest glacier systems of the world. Ladakh Karakoram branch shares its origin with GHR at Burzi Bal in PoK. From its origin, it initially runs Southeast and then Northeast towards Kharmang-Gund areas in the South of Skardu (PoK). A little further to the East, it gives rise to Ladakh Range (that will, in turn, give birth to Zanskar Range some 40 odd kms down South) in general area Ganse La. Thereafter, it moves East on North of Shyok River, facing Northern edge of Ladakh Range that runs South of this river. It encompasses Saltoro Hills (Siachin), Saser Kangri group, Chushku, Muztagh and Kunzang groups of mountains and glaciers before getting intercepted by huge loop of Shyok River flowing from North. Across the river, lies the inhabited and probably the most desolate, harshest and remotest areas of Aksaichin to include Kugrang Glacier, Galwan River and Lingzi Tang. However, Southern portions of this plateau, across Chang Chenmo River, have some settlements that are accessible only via mighty Marsimek La on Chenmo Mountain Range that lies North of Phobrang and Pangong Tso. This range separates Ladakh from Central Eastern Asia, basically Sinkiang Province (Yarkand and Khotan cities) of China. Nubra valley as well as Siachin Glacier lie between Ladakh and Karakoram Ranges.
07 June 10 - Weather remained packed today, adding to the uncertainity that has been existing for quite sometime now. Though cloudy skies gave the impression of snowfall on higher reaches, the good news is that there has been no snowfall at Khardung La today. In fact, absence of rain/snow in the town should have given us a fair indication. But same can not be said about Stok Kangri top. It looked as if it had been snowing there since the place looks fresh after a misty day.
Today, Changspa area of the town wore a different look. It was so well decked up with prayer flags, Khatangs and fabric gates that it gave a feel of a real festival. In fact, entry into Changspa from Shanti Stupa had been gated today.The occasion...visit of HH Rezang, Rinponche. HH enjoys the status of No 2 to HH Dalai Lama. His house is in Changspa and he is here on a visit these days. Once again, it was religious belief system at its best. One great thing to learn from locals is the methodology of being respectful to the person or a relic that they worship. Whenever they stand on either side of a path/road and a Rinponche passes through or holy scripts are carried on that path, they bend...really bend...out of respect. And unlike many of us, it is not tilting of neck; it is bending from the waist with both hands folded in front of the cheat and gaze on the ground. They do not stare at the holiness!!
June continues...June 2010- Well, it has been a month of unpredictability, ever swinging moods of weather gods and last minute cancellations/alterations in travel programmes by numerous road bound visitors to this part of the country (Please see earlier posts through out the month). Weather, in fact, remained the single key factor for such a mess. We have had a long winter, longer than usual, this time around. The first big snowfall, that isolated the region for the season, had been received on the night 13/14 November 2009. It was almost a month earlier than 2008 when the road had shut down only in mid December. Similarly, on the other side of the spell, May is the time when Ladakh gets connected both through Zoji La and Manali. This time around, despite some hiccups, Zoji La opened a bit before time but Baralacha La screwed the things up. It remained shut well into middle of this month even though it was opened for two days in between. Being the preferred route for obvious reasons, such a delay translated into reduction in number of roadies arriving here.
The hardcore types did their bit by switching over to Zoji La axis at the last moment but many others had to face disappointments. Even most of those who came through Srinagar, had to cut down on their itineraries to compensate for the time lost in the transit. Thankfully, Manali axis opened just in time as the valley prepared to shut itself for the reasons created, stoked and sustained by a few miscreants who had got better of common Kashmiris. As I write these lines, Zoji La axis, though open physically, is very very low on general traffic let alone tourist/travellers’ inflow. With Amarnath Yatra starting now, we may see some overflow this side. Manali axis, however, is operational and it is nice to see bikes and modified four wheelers covered with dust humming in the crowded streets of Leh.
June also means clash of political interests at some levels. Sindhu Darshan Festival had been started when a particular alliance was in power at Delhi, well around ten years back. The idea had proved its worth by changing the way people looked at Ladakh. It had played an instrumental role in bringing the region on tourist map of the world. No less than then PM had come in to inaugurate the festival. The festival used to be held in the third week of the month and it had a kind of continuity with Hemis festivities. With the change in power, the festival was re-designated as SINGHEY KHABABI SINDHU Festival and is now held in the second week of June, leaving a reasonable gap for Hemis festival to take off independently. However, the erstwhile power centre still organizes Sindhu Darshan as before and obviously, without any support from the guys in power. It may, thus, look like another messed up issue but on ground, it means something for everyone throughout the month. So, if you are here for a week plus stay during June, you will get a chance to have a look-see into way of Ladakhi life through Sindhu Festival or Sindhu Darshan or Hemis Festival.
Mr Omar Abdullah, the CM was here for the official function between 12 and 14 June. It was probably a co-incident that communication network here got jacked up suddenly during the duration of CM’s stay here. Official version was a cable getting cut somewhere along Leh-Kargil-Srinagar road. BTW, a similar cut had taken place in the month of May but it had only affected BSNL broadband and cell services to an extent while all other services had remained unaffected. This time around, however, all networks had got jammed, SMSs had been bouncing and even satellite based internet cafes had to lose out on business. The logical conclusion was the security related black out. This may/may not be true but believe me, all of us here and more so the tourists had a tough time communicating with folks back home as also with service providers here. But it was heartening to see Mr Omar walking up the Old Road, from his hotel (Grand Dragon) to main market, along with his family and friends without much fuss of security on one fine evening (13th, to be precise). Being a Safari lover that he is, our gazes had met as I was crawling through the traffic and he was walking up the slope, paying a special attention to our Grizzly. A nod later, we had moved on in opposite directions. It was equally fascinating to hear about his dinner in Tibetan Kitchen with no restriction on other diners and with security details waiting at a distance.
Here are a few glimpses of the official function……
First half of the month saw weather at its nastiest. It kept on raining/drizzling/snowing through out the fortnight. While courageous travelers did get good spells of bright sun shine in between, it became difficult to plan or stick to the pre-arranged itineraries because of K’La and Chang La getting shut every other day. Authorities had been extra cautious after avalanche related deaths at Chang La in May earlier this season. Wari La, as it is, never opened to start with. But such an environment duly boosted the spirits of those who wanted to do things differently. Towards end of last month, we had received the news of a new route opening up between Nubra and Darbukh. That would meant crossing K’La only once and then moving on to Pangong Tso without remaining at the mercy of Chang La ji, especially so if you planned to move on to Chushul and beyond. So, TSK, Kurt, Keekose and a few others attempted this very route. They had difficulties but they came out successful. Similarly, Santosh and gang was advised to do Tso Moriri first and then get back to Pangong-Tangtse-Darbukh-Shyok-Khalsar route to reach Nubra before getting back to Leh via Khardung La. ( I am not aware about execution part since we had left for Jammu the next day). At least for those traveling for second (or subsequent) time, such a detour means more concrete planning. Weather has not been behaving. Otherwise landslides on the new road, as experienced by the above mentioned travelers, should have been cleared by now. Past mid point of the month, weather had been a shade better, though not completely in line with the past trends. We left for Jammu on 14th afternoon after a night stay at Kargil, we hit Jammu the next day. We had a short outing to Kishtwar during our stay at Jammu. A few glimpses of the drive are here……..
A view from Hangru Loops
Tricky passage at Hangru Loops...
Briefing by Czia ...
A privileged lunch at Hangru top...
Approaching Lamayuru...
Lookin back...
Lets name all the shades..
Heaven on earth...its here, its here ...amiaste!!
Fotu La....
other side of Fotu La..
Road to NOWHERE...
Nimak La...
June continues...June 2010- Well, it has been a month of unpredictability, ever swinging moods of weather gods and last minute cancellations/alterations in travel programmes by numerous road bound visitors to this part of the country (Please see earlier posts through out the month). Weather, in fact, remained the single key factor for such a mess. We have had a long winter, longer than usual, this time around. The first big snowfall, that isolated the region for the season, had been received on the night 13/14 November 2009. It was almost a month earlier than 2008 when the road had shut down only in mid December. Similarly, on the other side of the spell, May is the time when Ladakh gets connected both through Zoji La and Manali. This time around, despite some hiccups, Zoji La opened a bit before time but Baralacha La screwed the things up. It remained shut well into middle of this month even though it was opened for two days in between. Being the preferred route for obvious reasons, such a delay translated into reduction in number of roadies arriving here.
The hardcore types did their bit by switching over to Zoji La axis at the last moment but many others had to face disappointments. Even most of those who came through Srinagar, had to cut down on their itineraries to compensate for the time lost in the transit. Thankfully, Manali axis opened just in time as the valley prepared to shut itself for the reasons created, stoked and sustained by a few miscreants who had got better of common Kashmiris. As I write these lines, Zoji La axis, though open physically, is very very low on general traffic let alone tourist/travellers’ inflow. With Amarnath Yatra starting now, we may see some overflow this side. Manali axis, however, is operational and it is nice to see bikes and modified four wheelers covered with dust humming in the crowded streets of Leh.
June also means clash of political interests at some levels. Sindhu Darshan Festival had been started when a particular alliance was in power at Delhi, well around ten years back. The idea had proved its worth by changing the way people looked at Ladakh. It had played an instrumental role in bringing the region on tourist map of the world. No less than then PM had come in to inaugurate the festival. The festival used to be held in the third week of the month and it had a kind of continuity with Hemis festivities. With the change in power, the festival was re-designated as SINGHEY KHABABI SINDHU Festival and is now held in the second week of June, leaving a reasonable gap for Hemis festival to take off independently. However, the erstwhile power centre still organizes Sindhu Darshan as before and obviously, without any support from the guys in power. It may, thus, look like another messed up issue but on ground, it means something for everyone throughout the month. So, if you are here for a week plus stay during June, you will get a chance to have a look-see into way of Ladakhi life through Sindhu Festival or Sindhu Darshan or Hemis Festival.
Mr Omar Abdullah, the CM was here for the official function between 12 and 14 June. It was probably a co-incident that communication network here got jacked up suddenly during the duration of CM’s stay here. Official version was a cable getting cut somewhere along Leh-Kargil-Srinagar road. BTW, a similar cut had taken place in the month of May but it had only affected BSNL broadband and cell services to an extent while all other services had remained unaffected. This time around, however, all networks had got jammed, SMSs had been bouncing and even satellite based internet cafes had to lose out on business. The logical conclusion was the security related black out. This may/may not be true but believe me, all of us here and more so the tourists had a tough time communicating with folks back home as also with service providers here. But it was heartening to see Mr Omar walking up the Old Road, from his hotel (Grand Dragon) to main market, along with his family and friends without much fuss of security on one fine evening (13th, to be precise). Being a Safari lover that he is, our gazes had met as I was crawling through the traffic and he was walking up the slope, paying a special attention to our Grizzly. A nod later, we had moved on in opposite directions. It was equally fascinating to hear about his dinner in Tibetan Kitchen with no restriction on other diners and with security details waiting at a distance.
Here are a few glimpses of the official function……
First half of the month saw weather at its nastiest. It kept on raining/drizzling/snowing through out the fortnight. While courageous travelers did get good spells of bright sun shine in between, it became difficult to plan or stick to the pre-arranged itineraries because of K’La and Chang La getting shut every other day. Authorities had been extra cautious after avalanche related deaths at Chang La in May earlier this season. Wari La, as it is, never opened to start with. But such an environment duly boosted the spirits of those who wanted to do things differently. Towards end of last month, we had received the news of a new route opening up between Nubra and Darbukh. That would meant crossing K’La only once and then moving on to Pangong Tso without remaining at the mercy of Chang La ji, especially so if you planned to move on to Chushul and beyond. So, TSK, Kurt, Keekose and a few others attempted this very route. They had difficulties but they came out successful. Similarly, Santosh and gang was advised to do Tso Moriri first and then get back to Pangong-Tangtse-Darbukh-Shyok-Khalsar route to reach Nubra before getting back to Leh via Khardung La. ( I am not aware about execution part since we had left for Jammu the next day). At least for those traveling for second (or subsequent) time, such a detour means more concrete planning. Weather has not been behaving. Otherwise landslides on the new road, as experienced by the above mentioned travelers, should have been cleared by now. Past mid point of the month, weather had been a shade better, though not completely in line with the past trends. We left for Jammu on 14th afternoon after a night stay at Kargil, we hit Jammu the next day. We had a short outing to Kishtwar during our stay at Jammu. A few glimpses of the drive are here……..A view from Hangru Loops
clouds add to the beauty (Namik La)..
This is Peerah Morh Stuff. Going from Srinagar side, once we cross Chanderkote and travel a few Kms, we see a new niche named, Dam View. From there, view of Baglihaar dam is great. But to have authentic Peerah Morh Rajmash-Rice-Ghee-Anardana Chutney combo, move on a bit. A complex of shops selling the stuff is just a few metres ahead. Go to Mansa Ram Dhabha that is on to the right where highway takes a turn to the left. Coming from JAmmu side, approx 09 kms from Batote, on to left is Mansa Ram. Pl ignore another complex that will come before Peerah Morh though they sell the similar stuff.....
This spot is approximately 20 kms upstream of Baglihaar Dam. It is on road Batote-Doda-Bhaderwah/Kishtwar. Water level has risen considerable since and many settlements have been evacuated. One charming thing is backwaters that have been created by rising waters in all the small and big nullahs and streams that contribute into Chenab...
A few glimpses of zoo'ed animals facing tremendous heat in Jammu Zoo...
[/CENTER] A few stats… Grizzly made it to Jammu from Leh without a refill. That meant 65 litres (official capacity is 60 litres) taking it through a mix of rough terrain and winding roads for 750 Kms. It was still going strong when I decided to feed her to avoid mechanical issues. However, on our way back (Equal distance but better going via Batalik), it swallowed 78 litres for 732 Kms. Probable reasons for such a variation are three….firstly, the over all gradient and gain in elevation; secondly, AC remained switched on almost for complete journey to Leh (it was not used while going down) and thirdly, the quality of diesel that I had taken from in-house pump at Leh (before marching off towards Jammu), was undoubtedly better that what we had got in Jammu for the return trip. The third point must not mislead you guys. As mentioned before, the quality of fuel in Leh is bad. The main pump of IOC at Leh (at the junction of of Manali-Leh, Srinagar-Leh, Old Road, Sakara Road and Hospital Road) is the worst of all. If we were to rate the quality among three pumps that exist in Leh (not counting the one that is situated short of Phayang on Pathar Sahab Road). The first one in the heart of the town, as described above, MUST be avoided. Please do not get confused by the rush of local vehicles there. It is my personal observation that locals do not believe too much in maintaining their vehicles well. I have come across numerous incidents where locals have preferred to use a spurious part or even re-cycled engine oil (especially the taxi drivers) just to save a few bucks. Their main focus remains on washing their vehicles in this water starved region. Therefore, rather than quality, it is the convenience that brings town dwellers and govt vehicles to this pump. So, examples need not be followed. The second pump short of Spituk, is reputed to be a better one but does not stock hi-octane stuff. Nevertheless, the pump remains very popular among non-local drivers and that is a fair indication. It would also be convenient for guys traveling on Srinagar axis. The third pump stocks all kinds of fuel and is located on Manali road at Choglamsar. It comes on to right of the road after one crosses BRO and ITBP campuses when coming from Leh. For the bikers and travellers entering and exit through Manali, this remains the best bet.
A word about stay at Kargil.... It is a bad place to stay unless you have arrangements tied up somewhere beyond hotels. Like JKTDC has two guest houses. One is good and the other one is just about tolerable. But the hotels are pathetic though rentals are as low as Rs 150/- at places. But the worst part is food. With all the fancy names that the eating places have on display, food remains horrible and service is always sickening. Places like Las Vegas and New Las Vegas and many others boast of freshly prepared food but have no issue with the taste that gets sacrificed along with the time there. BUT if an option is to be exercised between stay at Kargil and stay at Srinagar (Please refer to TSK’s thread on the issue), stay at Kargil is OK for us. In any case, this debate is about people hitting for Leh with no interest in Kashmir. If you want to see Kashmir, then it is a different story. But if you are forced by weather and road conditions to come via Srinagar or Zanskar is in your plan, it is better to plan one day drive between Jammu and Kargil and vice versa rather than doing Jammu-Srinagar in one day and Srinagar-Leh/Kargil the next day (similar for the way out). Srinagar is expensive, unpredictable and crowded (unless you have confirmed bookings), Sonamarg is in a same league. So for those in love with Leh District, Kargil, despite all its limitations, remains a viable choice. In that case, try for JKTDC or PWD or others (if you know someone) for stay and eat at a bakery or a tea stall like Nishaat to avoid bad food. At this cost, you would have saved time and money. The driving time from Kargil to Jammu and vice-versa, in a four wheeler and that too under the present circumstances where road is in bad shape with BRO yet to do patch work, would vary between 11 to 12 hours. As on date, road condition between Kargil and Zoji La is pretty bad. But the stretch between Khaltse and Kargil, despite all its natural beauty, is pretty bad too. So, while Kargil-Zoji La stretch can not be avoided, it is better to take permits for Batalik from DC, Kargil or DC, Leh (depending upon direction of travel) and avoid main route. The road through Batalik is open to tourists and though it is equally winding at places and almost single (width wise) throughout, the road surface is very good except first five Kms from Kargil. Also, traffic is negligible. The undulating face will not let you drive beyond 40 kph but there would be no need to brake and change gears every now and then. By taking this route, you would still have an option to go to Lamayuru by taking a 20 odd kms detour. The only things you will then miss will be two passes (hardly any heights) and Buddha statue at Mulbek. An input about Lamayuru…..the famous Hangru Loops (Gatta loops are like nursery going kids in front of Hangru loops) remain the only route from Lamayuru to Khaltse and other way around. The newly renovated link along Wanlah River is still under construction/improvement and, thus, closed. Having done Hangru Loops on a bike with an ineffective rear brake (both ways) and also in Safari, I strongly recommend a drive/ride through the area to complete your driving experience in Ladakh.
And as I wind up Jammu trip account, a word about famous Patisa (Besan-clarified Butter sweets)....numerous shops with PREM___ have come up in the market. The original and Best of all remains PREM SWEETS. It is to the left of the road when you come from Jammu and is located on the bend in the market, just short of water fountain. As of now, the sighboard on the shop is white with Prem Sweets written in English and Urdu. It is next to PREM DI HATTI that is more decorated and noticeable, though not as good.
Neither am I a lensman nor do possess a hi-fi camera. But as it remains, beauty lies in the eye of the beholder (and a bit in the subject too). Czia.....
Manali: Himachal Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation (HPTDC) has started the Manali – Leh deluxe bus service for the season 2010. Fare for one way journey will cost Rs. 2000 per person.The fare includes night stay at HPTDC hotel at Keylong, dinner and breakfast the next morning. The bus will leave Manali at 11 am and reach Keylong by evening. Next morning the bus will depart Keylong after breakfast and reach Leh in the evening.
Similarly from Leh the bus will depart at 4 am reaching Keylong for the night stay and depart for Manali the next morning. Fare for traveling from Leh to Manali is also the same as Rs. 2000.
HPTDC bus from Manali will leave every Monday, Wednesday and Friday during the week.
Apart from the HPTDC bus service, services of Himachal state transport and J&K state transport are also available on this route.
Manali – Leh route is officially open from July till mid September when the higher passes close down due to heavy snowfall till next year.
Leh Walks - With an improved weather, it is time to kick out of the bed at 0500h and take a walk.
1. Changspa (to include areas astride Changspa Road between Mission School and base of Shanti Stupa, areas below Shanti Stupa like Sankar, Yurtung, Doba, Changspa Village, Idgh and Circuit House complex); 2. Main market area between German Bakery at Changspa Junction and Leh Gate (will include Main Market, Zangtse, J&K Bank area, market on Fort Road till a small culvert near Gesmo and Lamayuru restaurants and Tibetan and other local markets including Moti Market, Library Road and ITBP campus near Leh gate);
3. Polo Ground area between Leh Palace and Leh Gate near Old Bus Stand (will include DC office complex, Polo Ground, Old Bus Stand area, road to Nubra and old settlements beneath Leh Palace);
4. Sakara area (Zorawar Fort, Army Cantonment, road beyond Gesmo and leading to Hotel Namgyal Palace and beyond, SBI ATM near IOC Pump);
5. Lower Leh to include Airport road, Skirzling, Golf Course, Hill Council Secretariat and SNM Hospital road going up to Leh Gate and Old Road where Hotel Ladakh Grand Dragon is located).
Changspa - To start with, it would be Changspa area.
Changspa Road with famous joints like KC Gardens, La Pizzeria, Café Jeevan 13, Spindle Tree, Rice Bowl, Orange Sky, Hotel Ladakh Residency (the newest property in the town), Hotel Omasila and many other landmarks, is undoubtedly the most happening area of the town. Even after imposition of ban on consumption of liquor in this area owing to religious reasons, in 2009, this area remains the hot spot to spend evenings. Now, what we see along the road is a crowded street with shops offering adventure activities, some Kashmiri and Tibetan Handicrafts and of course eating and staying options. During day, the area is crowded and up till midnight, it is alive and kicking. But once we hit the base of Shanti Stupa and turn right, we see a comparatively empty road that has many staying options like Hotel Panorma, Oriental, Shanti Guest House, Druk, Silver Clouds, Mantra Cottages and so on. This portion gives the feel of a residential area devoid of any major commercial activity beyond staying places.
As we inch forward, we come to a T-junction. Left from here goes to Shanti Stupa main entrance (600m away) and the right fork takes us towards a water point that feeds this part of the town through tankers when pipes get choked during winters.
The real beauty of this area, beyond glamour of restaurants and shops, lies in the area Idgh-Changspa. The area is open, rolling and lush green.
Because of restrictions on non-locals buying property here, this area, despite being so close to the most happening place of the town, gives you the feel of a village or country side. New houses have come up amidst green fields but most of the upper portion of this area remains open and green.
Here, one also comes across another facet of life here. There is no sewage system here and with people using dry eco toilets or a combination of dry and flush toilets with underground septic tanks, there is no outflow of muck from the houses. Kitchen and washroom outflow gets absorbed in the soakage pits in the lawns and sandy areas around the houses. A trial of a sewage system had been carried out in Leh in the past but the efficacy of such a system did not match up the effort involved. Households were then ordered to have soakage pits as well as septic tanks as compulsory components in construction. The dry latrines, as referred to before, do not shed any waste since at the onset of spring season as also when pits get filled, mud is mixed into the excreta and the mixture is used as manure. A pick up service is provided to all residents and commercial establishments to dispose their waste products. Any violation of the rule and if muck is found around a place, the occupants are fined heavily. Bigger establishments like Grand Dragon, have in-house disposal management system. With electric supply likely to improve in near future, such efforts will yield good results.
Rain water follows natural folds and empties itself into a nullah that flows down from Khardung La base.
With water pipes in place, PHE department caters for drinking water but this 24x7 water supply system remains unbeatable. What would be a waste water drain elsewhere would be a fresh water carrying medium here. After an unsuccessful trial of sewage system, the infrastructure like drains for sewage was converted to be used as water distribution system.
(Historically, Ladakh is known for miles long water channels that may emanate at a point higher up along a river or a stream and then travel a long distance to fetch water to settlements located downstream but at higher elevations. One most obvious example of this is area just below Fotu La where a water channel from Kanji Nalla is picked up from a re-entrant and then it goes all the way beyond Bodh Kharbu.) So, as this nallah enters the area in Thissuru, it gives rise to countless water channels that meander through lawns and boundary walls of houses before re-joining the parent source before the nallah crosses Changspa Bridge near Hotel Omasila.
(This is not the end, just a bend in a lane next to Hotel Snow View...)
This is the boiler that is used by all the guest houses to heat up water...
) Pl see:----- for the same log with comments of readers and other inputs, pl click here
ajay k raina, thefirstthambi@gmail.com
It reminds me vividly of our visit during 1967 to 1969 and repeated during 2005. Ajay has a great potential to write a tour book on Ladhak as currently there are very few that can give the details as he did. Congratulations.
ReplyDeleteA motivating story for anyone who wishes to travel to Laddakh, a different world which amazes any travller from the plains. Thanks for sharing your wonderful experiences.
ReplyDeleteWishing you many more adventurous trips in Laddakh. And hoping I will join you for some days.
You are amazing Col Saheb! What a detailed description. Look forward to yuor posts.
ReplyDeleteRajesh Ojha
dear sirs,
ReplyDeleteyour comments are invaluable and i thank you for all the kind words. please keep reading
Sir,
ReplyDeletethe travelogue is great ....can u guide us for the trip as we are planning to go there in mid june 2010 in our Maruti suzuki Sx4...is the car rightly suitable for the trip?
thanx
bye n rgds
Tarun Srivastava
tarunsemail@gmail.com
Absolutely mesmerising diary, which inspires anyone, not only adventurers but anyone who has spirit to explore. Keep inspiring people with your work. This is our social obligation as well.
ReplyDeletethanks a lot, Capt sahib and Tarun
ReplyDeleteWhat an absolutely gripping account! When I started reading, I did not think I would be sitting glued to the screen for over two hours!
ReplyDeleteBravo, Mr (or is it Col?) Raina! Three cheers to you and your family! I wish I could have the courage to take MY two kids to a place like this for an extended stay - and you did it with three dogs as well.
Different hotels vary in accommodation and also it's costs.
ReplyDeletePousada Buzios
Really an awesome diary......
ReplyDeleteKeep up the good work sir and i was not even tired scrolling the mouse to see the beautiful pics of ladakh. Sir we are plannig a trip to ladakh for 4-5 days.can u guide us to see some imp locations in ladakh. i know its less time but we guys have to report to office in a week. Your suggestions would be extremely fruitful.
Regards,
Sushant Jadhav
sushant.jadhav007@gmail.com
Such vivid details are not even available for our local community in Delhi also. I kept reading scrolling and continously matching my trip to Leh in June-10. Its more more more than amazing !!
ReplyDeleteamazing!!!!! feel like living there
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